From brassy to platinum blond or white hair - HOW TO

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If you're reading this, you're most likely one of the clever people who decided to go from dark hair to platinum blond, and you might even have followed my previous guide. If you haven't, I'll just put this short and save you lots of time and trouble:
If you've got brassy/ginger hair and you'll be satisfied with a normal blond tone - go out and buy a LIGHT ASH BLOND hair color. No need to thank me.
But if you're aiming for platinum blond or white, you'll need to follow this guide. Yes, it CAN be done! And no, it does not involve buying a purple shampoo and cross your fingers that it works.

My hair is 4-5 inches, from the root, of natural light ash blond hair - then it's 4-5 inches of ginger hair. The reason for the ginger is because I managed to buy an ash blond toner, and not a permanent hair color - and the gingerness came back without me noticing. Sneaky bastard.
I'm going to assume that you're at least a level 7 by now, preferably you should be a level 9 - but medium blond (with yellow tones) and light ginger/orange/brassy is no problem. We're aiming for a minimum level 10, you might think "It's just one level, how hard can it be?!", but you might also know what a bitch the brassy/yellow tones are. There is NO way to bleach your way to a level 10 or higher. Or, there is.. my friend did this, we're talking 15-20 sessions of bleaching, and her hair was like bubble gum afterwards. I prefer my way.
If you've bleached your hair this much, you probably know all about how to care for your hair properly. If not, check out my other guide for the details.

When aiming for such outrageous colors, it's important that you understand how hair colors actually work; why your hair turns brassy, and what you need to do to get rid of your ginger self.
Here, have a color wheel:

Did a little light bulb switch on? All hair colors have a color base, normal hair colors - including normal blond hair colors - have a yellow/red base, and this is why you still have brassy tones even though you've dyed your hair "nordic blond" a gazillion times.
Remember that purple shampoo you bought? Theoretically, it's supposed to counter the yellow tones. This actually works somewhat, but mostly for natural blonds - if you're a bleach blond it can reduce the yellow tones somewhat, but your hair will still be yellow. The key is to use a color that has either a purple or blue base. I don't think there are any that has a green base, but feel free to experiment with green toners if your hair is bright red. For this guide, I'm going to pretend that you have a yellow-orange color like me.

The first thing you want to do is bleach your hair. AGAIN?! Yes, but this time - we're pulling the big guns out. No more beauty shop bleach kits, oh no. Either go to a goth/punk store, or get it here on eBay. I'm talking about Stargazer Bleach & Peroxide kit . You can also try  Manic Panic Flash Lighting Bleach & Peroxide Kit , I haven't tried that one - so I'm sticking to the Stargazer for this guide. Both kits are designed for goths and punks (like me!) and that's why they're so much more hardcore than the normal bleach kits.
Let's talk about hair color levels and lifting. I wrote about it in my other guide, but it's easier for you if I just repeat it here.

Hair color levels go from 1, pitch black, to 10-13, platinum blond to white:

Lifting is going from one level to a lighter one, and the amount of peroxide decides how many levels:
10 vol peroxide: Doesn't lift at all, but it opens up the cuticles so that the color can set better.
20 vol peroxide: Lifts 1-2 levels (allows you to color your hair to up to 2 levels lighter than your color)
30 vol peroxide: Lifts 2-3 levels (allows you to color your hair up to 3 levels lighter than your color).
Stargazer's kit is 30 vol, but Manic Panic has one that is 40 vol - oh my! But be CAREFUL, using 30-40 vol will seriously damage your hair, especially if it's already damaged. Prepare for hair breakage and split ends.

ONE kit is enough. One kit will get you from yellow-orange to honey blond, if your hair is blond but a bit yellow - you will get seriously light blond hair, but not platinum. The yellow tones will, however, practically be gone. If you're satisfied with that level, go ahead and find an extremely light ash blond permanent hair color and dye your hair. Ash blond colors have a blue-green base, dye it once and bye-bye yellow/brassy tones - but we want platinum/white hair, not light blond.

In comes the semi-permanent colors, also known as toners. I am such a toner-addict! Toners do NOT damage your hair in any way, and they're fantastic for when your color is a little bit dull-looking and you've got a party or a date to go to. If you're a redhead, I suggest you stay away from dying your hair red with permanent colors... permanently. Get  La Riche Directions Poppy Red instead, you'll need to re-do the color as often as you would have with permanent colors anyway (yes, I know what a hassle red hair is) - but this way you won't damage your hair by doing so.
Toners last for weeks, anything from 2 to 8 weeks, they slowly fade away so it's not like you wash your hair and suddenly you're back to being ginger.
I prefer La Riche Directions, I've used Stargazer previously but I find La Riche to be better. One jar will be enough for one application if your hair is shoulder length, and they're quite cheap if you buy them here on eBay.
The tones you want are  silver and  white . The white one is actually purple, and the silver one is blue. Take a look at the color wheel again, and you'll see why. I recommend getting two jars of each, or more, because you might miss a spot or two.
Again, toners do NOT damage your hair. And no, even though the colors are blue and purple - your hair will NOT turn blue. It might, however, give you grey-green or completely silver hair if you leave it in for too long. If this happens, counter the green/blue with a regular blond hair color and it should be fixed.

You'll need to make sure that you apply it evenly, or you'll end up with ginger bits and pieces. The cool thing about these two shades is that you can apply it however you want to. Take my hair for example; my natural light ash blond roots are 1 inch long, then there's 3 inches of light blond hair, then 3-4 inches of ginger hair. Because the silver and white tones would blend naturally in with the light blond hair, I only had to be thorough with the roots and the tips - on the blond parts, I was like one of those artists who fling their paint brush at the canvas.. and it looks awesome.

The silver tone turned the ginger parts to a platinum/icy blond, it's shimmery and it looks really cool. It turned my blond parts into platinum blond, and the really light parts turned white! I did, however, manage to miss a spot.. so I'm platinum/white all over my head, except in one portion of my back hair.. which is still ginger. I'm gonna have to re-dye that.
Both of the toners counter your yellow/brassy tones, and covers it perfectly. No, I don't expect you to continue to tone your hair for years. As I've said twice already, toners don't damage your hair - which means that you can use toners to give your hair a break from the bleaching and dying - and still look awesome!
Continue bleaching, continue using extreme light ash blond colors, and I suggest that you go to a salon and get platinum/silver highlights. Highlighting is the easiest way to lighten your hair.

Congratulations, you are now a platinum blond!
Pro tip: When using extreme toner colors (Poppy red, bright pink, silver, white, etc), apply the toner while in the shower, after using shampoo, and wash it out straight away. This is a great way for maintaining a platinum or red hair color.
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