E Mail AEROGEN2007 at hot mail.comMY TWIN BLADE ROTOR FOR FUTURENERGY (4 AMP @ 6- 6.2 MPH WIND SPEED, MEASURED UNDER ROTOR)
WHY PAY £900 FOR A WIND TURBINE THAT MAKES SAME LOW& MID RANGE BUT FAR LESS MAXIMUM POWER THAN MY ROBUST PROVEN UNIT BELOW? GET FREE ENERGY FOR YEARS TO COME, ALL STEEL WELDED CONSTRUCTION,
£130 posted within U.K., high starting torque & variable angles
BIG ENOUGH TO 'DELIVER' great low & high end outputs,
MADE TO ORDER IN N-WEST AS REQUIRED, PLEASE INQUIRE IF INTERESTED.
1kw rated turbine offer includes 60 Amp charge controller & delivery in U.K. (Eire is extra as they charge £60+)
+ + = £740.00 all in! TURBINE PMG BLADES ALONE £670 delivered.
ALL INCLUSIVE AS IN PHOTOS INCLUDING PMG, RECTIFIER, FITTED & WIRED +ROTOR (needs assembling)
DELIVERY WITHIN U.K! .
FRANCE GERMANY HOLLAND, ITALIA D.H.L. AT COST +£40-£60 USUALLY.
Many thanks to Martin Mc Clintock for this photo on his S-African farm!
Blades and wind turbine chassis units, robust steel 4.3 kg wind turbine chassis as shown on several videos on U-Tube (wind4watts) are available, build a turbine with higher outputs to similar fancier looking £900 types, and with much higher top end outputs ( e.g. my rigid tail shown above with futurenergy 48v pmg & rotor 1kw@28mph and 2.0kw@ 40 mph) just for cynics these are a customers figures involved in industry on his data logging system NOT MY OWN!.
Turbine below with my TWIN BLADE ( 24V pmg) = 750 WATT IN 10.5-11 M/SEC WINDS ON OCTOBER 1ST 2008
4amp @ 6-6.2mph 2.7m/s 24v pmg (double these Amps on a 12volt)
I can supply custom made chassis to suit most pma's
RIGID TAIL TURBINE IS A HIGH WIND POWERHOUSE
Videos of wind turbines (paste) www. youtube.com/wind4watts
If you are considering installing a wind turbine or wind generator ( in U.K.), try and make sure that there is a clear aspect from the South Westerly side. Most of the British Isles wind comes from here during our windy Winter periods swinging from South round to Northwest , so mounting any turbine on this side of any airflow obstructions like your home, other houses, tall trees e.t.c. will tend give better results, ideally wind from all directions should be utilised (where posssible). Hand held anenometers are availalable from member for £23.00 if you want to take some measurements outdoors, dearer remote wind monitors are available also from £50+. Link to real time U.K. and E.C. wind speed data on my site .
CUSTOM MADE 2.2 KW AUTO FURLING UP WIND TURBINE
3.2 METER DIAMETER BLADES, 48V pmg for Mr Murphy in Co Wexford Ireland, alloy covers and tail
Did you realize, a laptop charger if left on overnight consumes 16 units of electricity for 10 hours that is about £1.60 on your bill for one night.
Ideally wind coming from any direction should of course be utilized where possible. Bungalowed estates, cottages and homes with open areas of land approaching them like farmland or surrounding lower lying ground, do have advantages over 2/3 storey urban area as you would imagine. But a turbine with good low wind characteristics can still be practical. As time goes on blade sets need to become larger proportionately to aid lower wind outputs in average wind areas.
The air close to ground is riddled with turbulence and eddies as it rushes past and around ground objects, houses fences walls trees e.t.c. , getting any turbine 4-8 meters up (as high as is practical), on a mounting pole or post secured to a garage wall, gable end (if a light unit) , will increase average wind speed by several mph ,and give much improved results.
If the wind speed doubles then the energy available goes up by the cube, i.e. by 8 times not x2, that's why many turbine output graphs start off fairly flat (in lower winds) but rise quite steeply.
Most smaller turbines use an steel/alloy tube to hold turbine aloft, and will require the use of 3 or 4 guy cables, (using steel wire "rope") to hold it vertical, and take the strain of wind pressure. These should normally be mounted at (as far as possible) equidistant angles from the tower, onto either a purpose set concrete foundation, or sometimes into strong brickwork using eye ended raw bolts or deep heavy duty plugs. Cable clamps hold the joints secure , these are available from antenna suppliers or in packets from B&Q warehouses.
Often some of this equipment will be included in kits. Purpose supplied self assembly tower kits for turbines are available from some green energy websites in the U.K. an Ayreshire firm specializes in them if required . On some smaller turbines, a thick walled steel scaffolding tube (schedule 40 4-5mm thick walls), U bolted to a firm wall or set in concrete may suffice if your not planning to go too high 4-6 meters shouldn't be a problem i have been this high you can then just have 3 guy wires which just prevents swaying in higher winds, this can look a bit alarming to passers by or neighbours and increases the stresses on the yaw/tube mountings. Schedule 40 scaffolding tube it is very dense in longer lengths, so if using long sections assistance will be needed to put it up and secure it. Thinner walled 48.3 x 2.5 mm is also available, lighter though not as rigid. Alloy 48.3 mm is much easier to handle, if the bottom is held secure by a hinged bracket it isn't that difficult to raise a 6 meter section with 14kg turbine against a structure and have assistance ready to secure a stand off bracket briefly at the top, (rope etc ) until raw bolts can be fitted & tightened.
12mm stud iron can be fashioned for making clamps using a section formed into j or U shape to grip the tube securely, and washers/ nuts on reverse side of the wall , it's a good idea to temper (harden) the steel once finished by heating to a straw colour and quenching it in water, this makes it less, malleable and resistant to bending in future. Ready made types are available also. Always ensure a safe 'fall zone' as unlikely as possible failures may be, this is normal practice with any wind turbine.
D.I.Y. wind turbines are feasible with a bit of planning, sourcing suitable parts and some basic engineering skill/ knowledge. Turbine frames can be made of alloy wood but mild steel probably offers the best overall material. Look at some existing turbines for ideas, U tube has some interesting turbine designs featured built by people at home and some very unorthodox experimental types also. see www.gotwind.org for pictures of some diy turbines..
Mounting the frame to the support tube or post allowing it to swivel into the wind, a little friction can be tolerated as it only swivels with changing wind direction rather than spinning as with the rotor, i have used both methods with good results.Whichever method is used it does need to be very robust as all the pressure from the air resistance /pressure on the rotor is transmitted onto this mounting including sudden gusts, which can occasionally whip the unit from one angle to another quite violently, i have seen tempered 12mm mild steel stud iron easily bent over almost double from these forces.
You can secure the wire at the top and run it down the tower, preferably rubber coated types like some some extension wire. Worries of the wire 'knotting up' within are somewhat of a myth, as a well designed turbine will never spin around, it should just turn 'as needed' like my units do. Many powerful commercial types still use this 'hard wired' method, though a slip ring can be used, making a satifactory reliable one is quite difficult.
QUOTE FROM A U.S. TURBINE SUPPLIER/ MANUFACTURER (ORIGINAL ARTICLE STILL ONLINE)
No Slip Rings - Our advice on slip rings is to use heavy rubber cable and don't worry about twisted wire. Twisted wires in the pole are an overated problem in small wind turbines. Heavy rubber wires tend to simply unwind when they are under tension and the head favours turning in the opposite direction to effect unwinding. In all manufacturing testing slip rings eventually failed and required maintenance while over 100 small test turbines equipped with rubber welding cable operated with exceptional dependability for over 12 years now and counting.
PMG . It's advisable to choose a proper manufactured pmg. (futurenergy supply these, also renewable components and blade sets) You can build them using Hugh Piggotts designs if you are very 'practical' and skillful engineering wise, using car brake discs and rare earth 'super' magnets mounted upon them, and hand wound copper coils these can work extremly well with good outputs at quite low rotational revs. In higher winds 50-70 Amps isn't unheard of from larger types, but the epoxy can eventually 'let go' of magnets frozen in extreme cold or when hot due to high outputs, releasing the (immensely powerful) magnets. This destroys the coils and renders these units inoperable, which must be very disheartening after so much work. Proper waterproofing/ sealing allowing cooling air to circulate and protective preparation could well reduce this hazard.
PMG's are available in 12-24-36-48volts outputs, so a unit designed to charge 2x12volt batteries would be a 24 volt rated though would actually produce 28-30 odd volt when spinning/ charging.
BLADES. One you have sourced a suitable pmg choose or make a good blade set, (I NOW MAKE BLADE SETS, DESIGNED TO GAIN THE BEST FROM AVERAGE / HIGH WINDS) we are after good start up torque,so go for a good surface area, steeper angle at the root if possible, and a gradually feathering angle at the tips, to allow a capability of reaching and withstanding 300 to possibly 900+ rpm a good typical operation range could be 300-500rpm, though when a pmg is working, it drops the revs down a lot, due to magnetic resistance and so called 'cogging'resistance as it does it's work driving the magnets around past the coils. simple 'one set angle' wooden blades although easy to make and mount, rarely/ never reach high enough revs to power up a pmg. Some are moulded from pvc drain piping/guttering so in essence are stiffer honed versions of the 'home cut' ones on google otherpower- and other sites.
Blades like these are fairly cheap & are variations of the (200watt output) Air X baby turbine and are fine if you have a cottage on top of Mount Snowdon or are driving a Dyno hub, little use on a F/Energy or similar pmg in normal wind areas.Simply not enough torque or area to get them spinning quickly enough!.
GRP 3 blade sets and hubs are on U.S. e bay, and look similar to the ones in chinese kits i have stocked, the ones i imported were quite good, but shipping virtually doubled the cost. Go for an adequate diameter and confirm the mounting methods but shipping costs can cost more than the blades!.
POWER STORAGE/GID TIE. If you are after a serious money saving set up, then plan to have a battery bank with a charge regulator alternatively E BAY MEMBER OPTIXELECTRICS supplies some excellent value charge diverters/ controllers which make a lot more financial sense to me than paying £190 for a Xantrex, these can be used to divert power to (for instance) to a dump load or safely mounted garage heater or similar without cooking your batteries in a bad storm for instance, as the energy available then can be too much to store one model even switches your turbine into 'braking' mode when batteries are full which is a great feature!.
Solar/Wind Monitor with turbine stop switch
GOOGLE OPTIXELECTRICS TO SEE WEBSITE.
.You can run power from the batteries via an Inverter to feed your lighting TV pc small halogen heaters, most things. Very high demand devices like tumble driers can be run off wind power i have done this, but expect to flatten your battery bank in quite a short time, even on 'low' setting they often use 2kwatts, they are power "eaters" as are aircon kettles some fridge freezers e.t.c.large water heaters and possibly not suitable unless using several units or a 5kw+ grid tie turbine .
A turbine feeding directly through a grid tie inverter like a Windy Boy or Windmaster need no batteries.
see u tube for some members system setups. This February in the U.K. saw more sunshine than for the last 100 years!.
TESTING If you slip a charge supply wire off briefly from a spinning pmg (not recommended usually) as i have done, (so the pmg isn't under load), the revs will rise from a modest but charging 14volt 230rpm to 500+ rpm and 60 volts in a 15 +mph gusty wind. Serious Mis alignment in the mounting shaft/plate e.t.c. or badly balanced blades can often mean it could literally shake itself to pieces in a high wind, ruining a potentially successful and productive device. Care in construction, like weighing/matching blades , final rotor balancing and "real life"testing is the best way. During testing a thin rope attached to the tail can be used to take turbine bladeset out of the wind if needed, and hold r.p.m. down until the problems can be sorted out.
STORM PROTECTION. Some type of furling or the ability to put the turbine into 'braking mode' to limit maximum strains in Gales is considered essential for a permanently installed unit especially if using wooden or grp blades it isn't unheard off for them to 'com adrift' at massive spinning revolutions,with roof piercing velocity, (though a lot a less likely with robust plastic types).
More often furling involves a tail boom unit which swings to one side turning the blades out of the wind, lowering the revs and strains, though usually, this method can work very reliably ensuring unit endures even 90+mph gusts as my furling units did recently the tail boom was at a full 90 degrees from the frame on a few occasions, but was still producing good power. On some designs the blade and pmg unit swing upwards to furl.
Methods to make this is too engrossed to go into here, and varies with each set up, some experimentation is often required to get it right.You really want to utilise the relatively energy rich regular 10-45 mph periods we get here in the U.K (if unit is up to it) , while protecting it from the 60-100+ mph winds and gusts we get most years.
Wind power is a new and developing technology and so has many limitations, but it is very satisfying to create or install a device that makes demonstrable useful amounts of power
Please see Scot Hugh Piggotts website (scoriag wind) if interested, he's somewhat of a pioneer/Guru in the wind power world, and has been involved in the field for decades. Many people around the world have followed his plans with great results, some enthusiasts articles showing the resulting turbines can be easily found on the web, often with photos of their construction process.
MORE WIND POWER INFO.
Some turbines like the U.K. Proven brand widely advertised, have a robust tapered tower with good foundations which is free standing, these can be seen in Blackpool on the seafront and also on the roof of one of the Council buildings, Airports Schools in Scotland and elsewhere, this makes the whole turbine quite expensive but also makes the whole setup extremely robust on it's correct foundations.
There is some growing support for utilization of limited wind power production in urban areas, (see urbanwindenergy.org.uk), no one would ever say conditions are even close to ideal as in parts of Scotland, the Western Isles, Stornoway or the Northern Irish coast, but some would argue that even a tiny contribution from home production will have some benefit in reducing emissions, and the Government agrees, with plans to ease planning restrictions to encourage it
One of my recent customers Bob and his wife Pauline who live in southern Spain invested in a 1kwatt turbine as he (in common with many others in rural Spain) manages without grid power but has bountiful winds. Having some reliable wind power with a small petrol generator as a backup, means power for lighting refrigeration T.V. without paying for a VERY expensive grid connection. Spain ranks second in E.C. for wind energy (after Germany), they are and have built hundreds of turbines in mountainous areas, and are phasing out nuclear power.
In America most wind power enthusiasts / users recommend mounting any turbine on a 40 or even 50 foot pylon or tower, this is very high, but where possible is ideal. The potential energy up there is much greater, and even though the tower/ mounting may be almost as expensive than the actual turbine, the payback in terms of overall energy production would prove worthwhile in short time.
In Ohio and many other States there are some communities who manage without grid power and through inginuity and economy manage on wind / diesel generation alone, same applies for some places in rural Eire Wales and Scotland.
small electric motors like the Amtek motor, (lots of articles about this on the Web) have been used to build very small useful wind generators,80-200watt enough to charge batteries for power for tent/camper/cabin garage or shed lighting etc. if spun quickly enough.
see photos and real time U.K Wind data at wind4watts
Give me a vote please if you found this was helpful or interesting to you & Thanks for looking!.