We we thought it was about time we let you know what we have found out after dealing with XBOX 360 Controllers (Wireless) for nearly 4 years now,
Just to initially clear a couple of things up, since the New XBOX "Slimline" Black Console was released in July 2010 the controller released along side has had a number if different names "New Elite", Slimline Black but it is now widely know a the new "S" Controller & about time to, why oh why they ever released the "Elite" with Grey Sticks, D-Pad & Back Bow-Tie Section (otherwise known as the headset section) we will never know, so at least the new "S" controller is a stunning all Black,
Microsoft have now officially stopped making the white controllers.Apart from the new all White limited edition "s" controllers.
Now back to how spot a fake controller,(You can get a pretty good idea but without one, and I will explain next) but to be 100% sure you will need a Special Screwdriver called a Torx T8H now the H is essential as it stands for "Hole" this is to fit the security prong that Microsoft use to fit the shell together, you can pick them up from eBay for less that £2.00, some people buy the T8 by mistake and knock the security prong out and is the T8 but I wouldn't recommend that at all.
First things first, we are talking about the WHITE Controller first, (without opening the pad) if the controller is sold as sealed in blister packaging and unopened then it should come with batteries in the packaging, if you receive the controller sealed & there are no batteries in the packaging then start to did a bit deeper, some don't include instructions either, so neither of both is rather worrying, open the packaging & the first thing to do is remove the battery pack, check the colour is the same shade as the controller, remove the battery pack & behind, on the controller there will be a White Microsoft Sticker, if this sticker is faded (not a sharp Black) then you really need to worry, personally that would be all the info I would need but if you wanted to be 100% sure open up the shell, there are 7 screws, the 6 are pretty obvious but the 7Th is hidden away behind the long strip with a serial number on behind he battery pack right at the bottom, you can either peel it of, keep it aside & undo the screw, (then replace the sticker when you have finished) or run the Torx T8H along the strip until you find the hole & poke it through,
Don't worry about opening the 360 pad as it's not like the PS3 pad where it's like "Buckaroo" when you open it & you end up finding parts 2 weeks later embedded in the wall, just gently pull of the back, you will then see where everything goes and if you have to just take a pic on you phone etc as a reference guide, on back shell you should have Microsoft Written in quite thick letters a a slight slope to the right, you will also have a circular dial from 1-12, an arrow with a number either side of it such as 0/7 (this is the year of manufacture and the arrow points to the month it was made, not fakes generally do have this BUT what you are looking for is the top part of the shell (where the buttons are housed, gently remove the PCB & the rumble motors will be attached, place the top shell face down so you are now looking at the inside of the shell, to the right hand side, next to where the D-Pad fits & next to a screw hole you should see the word "Microsoft" again, if there isn't then you have a fake controller, also if where anywhere |Microsoft is supposed to be written (as mentioned) it looks as though it has been scratched out or someone has run a soldering iron across it, then it's a fake, have a quick look at the PCB and the thumb sticks, with fakes they are generally dirty inside as most either use refurbished, fake or used innards,
With regards to the new "S" Controller the same info is true, we purchased a pad from a well known large overseas seller of all things LED/Flashlights etc (bit of a clue there) with the sole reason to see if it was genuine, as soon as we opened the box you could see without taking it out of the packaging it was fake, we also purchased another from a similar company and another fake arrived, if you didn't know better you would accept it as Genuine but you are not really paying that much less? One final pointer for the new "S" Controller (NOT the old Black Elite with Grey Sticks etc) but the new one, the "Play & Charge Port" & "Headset Port" should be "BLACK", so if you purchase one listed as Genuine and it turns up with all black sticks, d-pad, bow-tie section, sync section BUT grey connectors, then someone has purchase a new "S" Controllers shell & fitted an old PCB (trying to pass it of as real) as it should look black all around,
I will add some pics of both shortly but I hope this helps out and gives you a bit of insight into how to spot fakes as spending £20+ and ending up with a pad that's either fake or a Frankenstein's monster job can be extremely annoying,
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