Redline_7000 is the eBay trading name of The Old Car and Bike Company. We are based in Northallerton, North Yorks.
Order with confidence..stock levels are good and this product has been tested by many happy buyers..see excellent feedbacks.
READ ALL OF THIS, IT INCLUDES THE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS.
Available to fit 6mm, 8mm and 10mm pipes. Please state internal pipe diameter required. The 6mm measures 7mm od, the 8mm measures 9mm and the 10mm measures 11.0mm for a good tight fit in the pipe. An 8mm valve will be shipped if no preference is stated. Please note the diameters are based on the pipe fitting and do not refer to the internal bore of the valve, however we have found no restriction problems under normal operating conditions.Simply cut the pipe from your tank to the engine,(you may need to remove a short section) Fit the pipe with a couple of suitable clips (some installations may get away without clips)and it's done.The arrow must point towards the engine.Run the engine and make sure oil is returning to the tank, the valve may need a couple of miles before it's operation is up to the mark as it needs to be full at either side of the valve disc inside.I also recommend you flush out your oil tank before fitting the valve as it only takes a small piece of carbon or similar to hold it off it's seat, it is probably a good idea with most oil tanks, you will be suprised how much black sludge/red hermatite there is lurking at the bottom.An oil change is also a good idea at this time.
WET-SUMPING (Please read all of this)
When our vintage/classic bikes were used every day this was never a problem, now with infrequent use and possibly pumps with larger clearances it can be a nuisance, some people fit a tap, but you just need to be distracted and set off,"off" ..expensive!
What you need is one of these excellent anti-drain/wet sumping valves, no more clouds of smoke and oil coming out of places it shouldn't onto your garage floor! Made from aircraft quality alloy it will not corrode and is very light in the pipe line.It does not have to be in a vertical position, horizontal under the engine works too.The valve can be stripped and cleaned out. Sealing of the body is by an 'O' ring.Temperature range is -10 to +350C, if your oil gets hotter than that you have got problems! The valve must be fitted with the arrow pointing towards the engine.The other good thing is you can forget about it...unlike that TAP! The valve is 2.5 inches long and 1 inch across the flats.
You should always check to make sure oil is returning to the tank for at least 5 minutes after fitting the valve.I always check oil is returning to the tank on a regular basis on any bike before setting off.
The other thing you should consider is that if your oil pump is so worn it is wet sumping very badly then it might be a good idea to reface the pump end plates and check the gears for wear, this is the only place the oil can pass when the engine is not running.You can check the pump by fitting a vacuum gauge to the inlet and briefly start the engine. There should be 10 inches of vacuum or better.The valve opens with only 4-6 inches of vacuum.Vacuum gauges work on a scale of inches of mercury or Hg.A perfect vacuum raises a column of mercury 30 inches hich. In practice any reading over 25in is difficult to achieve. We all expect the pump to pass poorly filtered oil for 40 or more years and still be OK!
I have now sold a lot of these valves and there are lots of bikes running around with no problems. The only problem we have found is some slight oil starvation when cold on MONOGRADE 50. Now you really don't need to use a monograde,ironically sometimes used to try and reduce wet-sumping!, modern multigrades are probably better in most respects. The old adage that a multigrade is not suitable in an engine with rolling elements bears some truth as the bigend/main bearings do munch up the long-chain polymers but all this does is slowly return the oil to a monograde.....but you would have to leave it in for 50,000 miles for this to happen...how often do we change our oil? Usually before it has time to go black! So a good 20w/50 is recommended. Halfords do a really good "Classic" 20W/50 in a suitably period tin and I would swear it is Duckhams! You can still find Duckhams if you try, but to be honest a cheap B+Q oil far exceeds any specfication required for a basic British bike engine. For anyone wondering when a 20/50 changes from 20 grade to a 50 grade this happens around 80' to 100'c. Most Japanese bikes run a 10W/30 or 40 Grade and they have lots of roller bearings, often running a high flow pump with as little as 6 psi pressure.If you do want to use a monograde "Classic" oil use a 40 in the warm weather and change to a 30 if you do use it in the colder stuff.I recommend Silkolene for monograde oil. Always change the oil BEFORE you lay up for the winter and then it is not sitting with all those nasty by-products and condensation munching away at that precious roller big end.
I have had enquiries regarding Triumphs. A plunger pump should not wet-sump, if it is then you need to remove it and reseat the two ball valves in the pump base.A sharp tap on the ball with a hammer/punch does the trick.Fit new springs if they are short,they should be 1/2 inch long.Hold the pump in the vice by the gasket face (with soft jaws) and NOT by the barrels.You can fit a valve to a Triumph if you wish.
AJS and Matchless twins have large pipes and the 10mm valve at 11.0mm od pipe fittings will fit these with no restriction,you may need to fit thin pipe over the valve to make up any slight difference, the pressure pump shifts just under a pint a minute, the valve will pass 6 times that. Do ring if you have any enquiries or e-mail via Ebay. Contact details at the bottom of the page. Advice is always free.