THESE ARE THE BEST REFILLS ON THE MARKET.
THERE ARE OVER 700 MOTHS ON THE 15 PADS IN PICTURE 2.
I GUARENTEE THAT IF YOU HAVE CLOTHES MOTHS (tineolla bissielliella)
THESE TRAPS WILL WORK.
PLEASE CALL ME FOR ANY UNBIASED HELPFUL AND FRIENDLY ADVICE 01722-716663
THE TRAP MEASURES ABOUT 18CM. 7IN. TOP TO BOTTOM.
MONTYPLEASE READ COMPREHENSIVE ARTICLE BELOW
This article is about CLOTHES MOTH control.
It will explain why they are a pest and what
needs to be done for controlling infestations.
Clothing moths have long
been a problem for mankind.
It is believed they have been around as long as there
have been animals with hair. Natural fibres
clothing moths feed on; they have a unique ability
to turn keratin, a protein available in wool, fur,
horns and many other natural materials, into food.
Clothing moths possess a special enzyme which
works in the digestive track of the moth. Though
they prefer natural hairs and fabric fibres, clothing
moths have been found to eat just about anything.
The list includes but is not limited to snake skin,
beef, just about any type of meal, milk products,
finger nail clippings, human hair, pet hair,
wool, cotton, silk,
carpets - both natural and synthetic, leather, cork
and bees wax. They appear to be able to eat anything
but this does not mean they are able to live and
prosper on such diets. Clearly some of the above
items on which they feed are better suited as food
items and some are not. However, the moth will take
advantage of what is available; a variety is
not needed, just a good supply of something which
has their needed nutrients.
Additionally, it has been
learned clothing moths
prefer fabric which is dirty or stained. They are
particularly attracted to carpeting or clothing
which has human sweat, urine, milk, coffee, gravy or
other liquids which have spilled on them. It appears
they are attracted to these areas not because of what
spilled there but because the spill contains moisture -
a vital need for most insects. Since moth larva
not drink water, their food must contain moisture
from which they can extract their requirements.
Clothing moths develop much
like any other insect.
Eggs hatch larva which feed. Once they get their fill
they pupate where they undergo metamorphosis to emerge
as the adult. Adults do not eat; male adults look for
females and adult females look for a place to lay eggs.
Once their job is done they die. Contrary
to what most
people believe, adult clothing moths do not eat or cause
any damage to clothing or fabric. It is the larva which
is solely responsible for this; larva spend their entire
time eating and foraging for food. If they find enough
close to where they hatch they will spend their time
eating and very little time foraging. If conditions are
not providing them with enough food, larva will become
mobile. They will travel as far as they have to in order
to get proper nutrition.
Adult females and larva
prefer low light conditions.
Most moths are drawn to light but clothing moths seem
to like dim to dark areas over well lit rooms. If
larva find themselves in a well lit room, they will
try to relocate under furniture or carpet edges. Since
hand made rugs are a favorite food item for clothing
moths, it is easy for them to crawl underneath and do
their damage from below. They will also crawl under
moldings at the edges of rooms in search of darkened
areas which hold good food.
Clothing moths can easily
be confused with pantry
moths. They are similar in size, can and do infest
side by side and are able to eat similar food. The
big difference is where they end up infesting. Though
clothing moths are able to arrive at a home in some
type of grain or meal, they will move to other parts
of the home where fabric is found preferring this
as a main food supply. The
most common clothing moth found to infest
fabric in homes and places of business is the
Webbing Clothes Moth. It is found
worldwide and no
structure is missed. Churches, homes, carpeting
warehouses, museums and just about any building has
the needed material on which larva of these moths
feed. They are also greatly on the increase in the UK.
Though they prefer moist conditions, it is
important to understand low humidity merely slows
their development. A lack of moisture is most
likely to keep them eating and in their cocoons longer.
It will not eradicate infestations. Female adults
don't like to fly; males will readily fly looking for
females. These are small moths; adults grow between
1/4 and 1/2 inch. Their eggs are tiny most being under
1/24th of an inch long and barely visible. Females will
lay several hundred during her life and egg placement
will be carefully chosen in locations where they will
have the best chance for survival. They prefer
ragged threads of fibre and when laid, the eggs are
attached with a glue like material making it almost
impossible to remove with ordinary vacuuming or
cleaning. This is an issue which must be dealt with
when treating and will be discussed later in the
article. Unlike most insects, the eggs will hatch
when ready regardless of the climate. They do not
overwinter in the egg stage. Inside buildings
egg hatching will happen all year round making any
time the proper time to treat suspected infestations.
Once the egg hatches, the larva will immediately look
for food. They are barely bigger than the egg and
though they have no eyes, larva will readily find
food. If egg placement was good, larva won't have to
travel far to find a meal. If no food is present,
they will crawl in search of dinner. The larval
stage appears to be critical for understanding their
development and control measures. Larva can get
their required food in under two months but if
conditions are not favorable, larva will feed on
and off for a long time. It has been found they
can stay in this stage for over two years. Besides
doing a lot of damage during this time span, larva
will mislead people present into believing the infestation
has been eliminated because no adults are being seen. Though larva do not
create a case in which they live they do spin a type
of webbing around areas where they are most active.
They generally will use this silken area as a place
to sleep and remain protected but will venture away
from it as needed to find food. Silk found on
or furniture is a sure sign of webbing clothes moths.
Whether it takes two months or two years, larva will
eventually spin a cocoon in which they will change into
adults. They will stay in this cocoon for 1-2 months and
then emerge as adults ready to mate and lay eggs. The
average time it takes a local infestation to go from
egg to egg is just about a year; the speed of
will depend entirely on food supply, humidity and
The first tool which will
prove helpful for any level
of infestation is to install some clothes moth traps
These are pheromone based traps which use female
sex pheromones to lure males. The attractant is much
stronger than natural pheromones emitted and
emerging males will not be able to resist the smell.
Once they get to the trap, a board of non-drying
glue awaits them. They will land, get stuck and
prevented from impregnating females. Traps will
last several months and though they won't stop
eating larva, they will cut down the adult male
population dramatically. We will advise
they need replacing .This
will help to prevent
future egg laying and aid in control. They will
also serve as a good monitoring device. If your
traps are catching more moths than you would
like, more treatments will be needed. Be sure to
locate them in wardrobes, around carpets or furniture
and any other room where you have activity. Try
to inspect them at least once a week.
Once you have traps in place,
aerosol or liquid
treatments can be done. In order to prepare for
these applications, it is best to do some house
cleaning. This will
involve different things for
different areas. First, if you have activity in
a wardrobe around clothes or other stored fabric, you
will need to do a good vacuuming. You may even
need to dry clean certain items. This process will
help to remove moisture levels. Make an effort
to go through
each piece paying particular attention to anything
which is either valuable or left alone for long
periods of time. Fabric, whether
clothing or bulk,
can harbor infestations at different levels. Since
larva will not readily migrate if the food supply is
both close and abundant, you can easily miss
nest locations and feeding sights. If you spend
time going through the piles of clothes and fabric
you are most likely to find any droppings, webbing
or even adults. Finding any of
these will aid in control
measures. If you are not washing or dry cleaning
suspected infested clothing, make a point to vacuum as
much as you can. This process will take some time
but this will prove to be a worthwhile investment.
Vacuuming will help to remove larva, adults and
their silk webs but eggs and pupae are almost impossible
to remove. Glue like excretions and the cocoon spinning
process does a good job of affixing eggs and pupa in
place. A cheap and effective way of killing the eggs and
pupae is to put the clothes into a bin liner and leave in your
deep freeze for a couple of weeks. The same holds true for rugs.
Thick carpets need to have a good vacuuming. Since hand
weaved rugs generally have natural fabric through
and through, clothes moths will find their way to
the underside and their feeding will cause the top
to come undone. However, topside treatments may not
penetrate far enough to get them and turning up sides
or in some cases turning the rug over may be needed
to insure good coverage. Synthetic carpeting, though
may harbour some moth activity, usually
has a some type of backing moths cannot eat. This will
allow you to treat from the topside effectively.
Other items which may develop moth activity include
tapestries, taxidermy mounts, drapes, wreathes, linens,
area rugs, stored goods or just about anything
which has some natural fabric or material on which
clothing moths can feed. Most of these items will need
a vacuuming prior to treatments to insure good
results and to maximize product effectiveness.
Once you have cleaned wardrobes,
carpeting, furniture, or anything else with activity,
you are ready to treat. The simplest thing you can
do is to use an aerosol which is OK for small areas.
For wardrobes, the use of such a product is fine.
Aerosols are ready to spray, easy to
apply and don't require much "dry" time. They're very
handy for use on furniture, taxidermy mounts or tapestries.
Though they will kill currently active insects, they
will usually not prove strong enough to knock out
major infestations but they are a good starting point.
Mosquito and insect repellent and can be used on clothing
or other surfaces where you want to provide some protection
from clothes moth attack. It's effective on over 50
different insects and is excellent for small jobs where
you need some protection. If you have spent the time
going through your wardrobe and are not quite sure if
there is a problem in the area, treating it
of this Permethrin would be smart. It's odorless and
a light misting will insure you don't get holes by
any fabric eating pest that might be present. Don't
waste your time with smelly moth balls which won't
work as well or relying on ceder wood boxes (they stop working
after a couple of years); treat with some Permethrin for better
protection and ease of use.
Larger areas can be treated
with the use of
either a MINI SMOKE or a SUPER SMOKE
you can treat large areas quickly and effectively.
The Mini Smoke will reach 3 to 6 Meters
The Super Smoke will reach over 10 Meters.
Refered by a friend, reordering
By 09/08/10. I recently had a moth problem in my new house and
they started eating our sweaters, of course, with a particular taste for
cashmere. They are these tiny little tan colored moths that turn to dust when
you squish one. But can they do damage! We had to throw away hundreds of
pounds worth of clothes. All the other products we looked into had some sort
of toxic issue with them and having a house with pets, we were not happy to use
them. I thought that was going to be my only option when a friend
recommended this product. It is basically a SUPER sticky pheromone infused pad which you put in to a triangular wallet and place in a cupboard
or a room. The male moths just FLOCK to hormone scented pad like crazy!
Suckers. Then they get stuck on the cardboard and die. I could not beleive how
fast our first ones filled up, it was fun in a strange way to watch it every
day. They last about 3 months before the hormone starts to lose potency. The
first batch took care of about 80% of our problem and we put out a fresh batch
to finish off the rest of them. We put two in each wardrobe the first time
around, one high and one low, and that seemed to work well. I now keep one in
the corner of all my wardrobes as insurance but they are gone. Disposable, non
toxic, very affordable (less than the cost of one ruined sweater) and works really well.
Would you recommend this product to a friend?
REPLY : There is no need to over saturate these traps the pheremones are very powerful and will work in any draught free area part of room.What ever others say, male moths are NOT, I REPEAT NOT, AFRAID OF THE LIGHT, THEY WILL TRAVEL GREAT DISTANCES TO FIND A FEMALE LIGHT OR NO LIGHT.
Thankyou for your endorsement I am pleased have one of the most competitively priced moth traps available and have a wealth of personal experience to promote these moth traps. MONTY. Please call me 01722-716663