Details about MORRIS 8 EIGHT ENGINESee original listing
For parts or not working
10 Nov, 2013 22:28:59 GMT
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Whitehaven, United Kingdom
For parts or not working: An item that does not function as intended and is not fully operational. This includes items that ... Read moreabout the condition
I bought this engine 3 years ago as a spare for my Morris Eight Series E but I have not used it. It has been well greased and carefully stored and I have just had a good look at it to make sure there has been no deterioration.
When I bought the engine I believed it to be a "military engine" as used in Centurian Tanks to start the main engine and charge batteries.
These engines are sought by many Morris Eight owners because they are well developed late models and were expected to have been well maintained by the army.
Features suggesting it is a military engine are :- the duck egg blue colour, oil filter , aluminium cooling jacket cover on off-side. However, the engine number on the plate riveted to the engine is not like the numbering system described in the Morris Register (club magazine) article by Major Alan Thompson(summer 2004.
I also expected the engine to have a split lip seal at the rear end of the crankshaft but this engine has a scroll seal as photo.
Someone suggested that it may be a Morris Minor engine but I don't know and any advice on this would be welcome.
I have not fully dismantled the engine but what I have examined and measured shows negligible bore wear and a crankshaft which has been reground but should be usable for several more thousand miles.
OIL FILTER. Supplied but removed from engine and the oil inlet/outlet blanked off. I understand this is a modification to avoid the oil filter as fitted to a stationary engine fouling the car exhaust manifold.
OIL PUMP. Not present. I believe a standard Morris 8 oil pump is suitable.
CYLINDER HEAD is not present. I understand the standard Morris 8 head is suitable.
CYLINDER HEAD STUDS. Present
CYLINDERS. Fitted with wet liners.I measured up to 57.05mm ID with digital calipers and could detect no wear step at top of bores The head is stamped 0005" near each cylinder.
PISTONS. Generally in good condition. Stamped +.0005"
No. 4 piston ring gaps : Top .030", middle .018", oil ring .043"
CAMSHAFT CHAIN DRIVE. Little wear BUT I noticed a chipped corner on a tooth on the camshaft wheel. See Photo.
VALVES and SPRINGS. All present but not inspected.
MAIN BEARINGS. +.040" shells fitted. ID measured (using digital calipers) 1.615". Journal OD 1.612 so running clearance approx. .003" on all 3 bearings.
CRANK PINS. +.060" shells fitted. ID measured (using digital calipers) 1.517/1.518. Journal OD 1.514 so running clearance approx. .003/.004" on all 4 bearings.
REAR OIL SCROLL SEAL.
Scroll OD measures 1.958" which is the same as my previous engine which only leaked the occasional drip as is normal. So I believe the scroll is undamaged and unworn.
With rear bearing cap removed the clearance between scroll and aluminium "halfmoon" housing is .003" each side which is entirely satisfactory.
-with the bearing cap in position the scroll housing ID is 1.978" max which I would expect to lead to unacceptable leakage to the clutch housing.
-there is a small "uphill" step between bearing housing ID and halfmoon ID on both sides so the bearing cap scroll housing has been machined oversize for some reason.
To minimise oil leakage to the clutch housing I suggest the rear bearing cap should be replaced and carefully checked to provide the specified scroll seal radial clearance. I have had bad experience with this seal on my car and managed to cure it so I can give more advice if needed.
IN SUMMARY THERE IS THE BASIS OF A GOOD ENGINE WITH NO EXPENSIVE CRANK REGRINDING OR CYLINDER BORING NEEDED FOR SOME TIME.
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