***My TR6/M3 is located in the US and have it listed on the US eBay site as well. If it sells there first I will cancel this listing immediately...I will include FREE enclosed shipping to the Port in Houston, TX if exporting (I have a bid for $1,075 USD to ship to the UK from Schumacher Cargo Logistics). I have a specialty carrier that owes me a favor that ships my bikes around for me so I'll pull in that marker for you.***
First let me apologize as my ad is very wordy but I felt it necessary to tell the story. Up for sale here is my labor of love for the past six years. This project started out as a 60K mile, stock, rust-free 1973 TR6 and is now configured with a BMW M3 Drive-Line with every system brought up to the 21st Century and has been driven 2,300 miles since so it’s completely sorted and ready to roll. Every nut and bolt has been removed and replaced with AN, Grade 8 or Stainless depending on their locations and requirements (I truly mean “every” nut and bolt). Every component on the undercarriage has been Powder Coated or finished with POR 15 to prevent any future degradation issues. This is not your typical Resto-Mod and I’ll try to outline all the Mods that I performed to the beast below:
Body-Off / Nut & Bolt Resto
· Complete Body-Off / Nut & Bolt Restoration
· Rhino Lined Tub (interior, trunk, inner fender wells, bottom)
· Significant Frame Strengthening
· 6-Point Roll Cage with Harness Bar & Removable Intrusion Bars & Diagonal Brace (Powder Coated)
· BMW M3 S50 (OBD1 Computer) Engine w/ Mods and O/H’d
· Custom Programmed Chip from Jim Conforti taking into consideration mods
· BMW M3 5spd Transmission
· UUC Motorwerks 8.5lb Aluminum Flywheel
· Sachs HD Clutch Kit
· UUC Motorwerks Transmission Mounts
· UUC Motorwerks Short Shifter Kit
· Nissan/Infiniti R200 LSD Differential (3.54)
· Custom CV-Joint Rear Axles (no more U-Joints)
· Richard Good Lowered Spring Set Front & Rear
· Richard Good Sway Bars Front & Rear
· Richard Good Adjustable Rear Trailing Arm Mounts
· Spax Adjustable Shocks on all 4-Corners
· Toyota 4-Piston / Vented Disc Front Brakes
· Custom Wilwood Rear Disc Brake Conversion
· Stainless Steel Brake Lines
· New Master Cylinder and O/H’d Booster
· Quick Ratio Steering Rack
· Richard Good Aluminum Rack Mounts
· BMW/BBS 17” Style 5 3pc Wheels
· Falken RT-615 225/45/17 Tires (DOT Spec Racing Tires)
· BMW M3 Radiator / Cooling System
· Advance Auto Wire / Dan Masters Custom Wiring Harness (Relays & Fuses)
· Custom 16 Gal Aluminum Fuel Tank
· Custom Stainless Exhaust (w/ Oxygen Sensor)
· Powder Coated Windshield Frame w/ New Glass and Trim Coverings
· Custom Powder Coated Bumper Bars (original bumpers included)
· Koa Wood Dash and Switch Plinth Plate by Randy Keller (Prestige Auto Wood)
· All New Crash Pads
· Miata Seats w/ Heaters
· Custom Full Leather Interior
· Custom Wilton Wool Carpeting
· TR4 Soft Top Assembly (completely removable so no bulky frame in the cockpit / TR6 Frame included)
· Optima Red Top Battery Re-Located to Trunk
My intentions were to craft a virtually stock appearing TR6 that performed at insane levels while delivering exceptional reliability. Various V8’s have found their way into these cars over the years but require many modifications that I was not willing to live with (steering geometry, firewall cutting, weight changes, etc.). While this was no mere “bolt-in” process, the net results lightened and balanced the overall car and required absolutely no changes to the steering and suspension system. It was almost as if BMW had this engine bay in mind when they designed their S50 M3 Power Plant. Engine Mods were held to Head-Work, 8.5lb Aluminum Flywheel, HD Clutch, Cold Air Intake and a custom Chip by Jim Conforti taking into account this particular application with the installed exhaust, no Cats, Intake, O2 Sensor, Flywheel, Curb Weight and 7000 RPM Limiter. It’s absolutely ridiculous how fast this thing is.
I stripped the entire TR6 down to a pile of nuts and bolts and shipped off the tub and panels to be Soda Blasted before taking them to the body shop. This gave me the opportunity to tackle the frame and drive line. I started by having the frame sand blasted then welded in a lot of additional steel at all the known and unknown weak spots including the TSI Rear Strengthening Kit and ¼” plate added atop the rear spring mounts. Every factory weld was ground and re-welded to insure zero issues with frame cracking, twist or degradation due to the added HP and suspension modifications. I also had a local race car fabricator custom make a 6-point roll cage that ties into the frame directly via the four body mounts in the cockpit and thru the rear bulkhead and down to the aft frame sections (clears the roof). This is probably the most torsionally stable Triumph Frame you’ll ever find and the driving changes it made are very obvious. Next I coated the frame with POR15 along with all the suspension bits as it holds up much better to rock/road debris than Powder Coating. I utilized all of Richard Good’s suspension upgrades which include Lowered Springs, Sway Bars and Adjustable Trailing Arm Brackets. Due to my prior experience with Koni, I selected Spax Adjustable Shocks all the way around which once set-up match the over-all handling perfectly. I must admit, I had Roger Hurst (local Shop Owner & Triumph Racing Legend) actually “set up” the suspension once loaded to insure the proper geometry required to provide the best handling and ride. I also added a new quick ratio steering rack combined with Richard Good’s Aluminum Rack Mounts and a slightly smaller diameter Leather Moto-Lita Steering Wheel. I’m in the aviation business and have access to all sorts of great hardware so all the suspension and brake nuts and bolts were replaced with AN series or Grade 8 at a minimum.
I changed out the front brakes to Toyota 4-Runner four piston calipers mated to Toyota Cressida vented rotors which as many of you know is a very simple conversion. For the rear I ran across a couple of guys who campaign a full-race TR6 that designed and machined a race-approved disc brake conversion kit to install Wilwood Aluminum Calipers clamping on 280 ZX Rotors. They were in process of commissioning a machine shop to make a few more sets for a new car they were building and were nice enough to have a set made up for me at the same time while sharing their engineering. This is not one of these cheap kits that come around every so often but a serious chunk of machined aluminum that has been approved for use on the track. I also had Classic Tube make a complete set of Stainless Brake lines and sent out the booster for o/h and replaced the master cylinder and filled it all w/ DOT5 fluid. I installed a Wilwood lever-style brake bias adjuster which can be manipulated on the fly by the driver if you want to change the proportion of force front to rear. I have installed a B&M Launch Control Kit (line lock) in the front circuit but I did not wire it up. It’s just one more thing to get me into trouble either by shredding too many tires or by the local law enforcement. It’s fully plumbed and the wires terminated under the dash, just need to hook up the button. The hardware combined with the Bobcat pads make this TR6 stop on a dime with no wheel lock-up and much reduced fade.
The rear differential is an obvious weak spot along with the rear axles on TR6’s especially when horse power is added. I opted for the Nissan/Infiniti R200/R230 dif as it was extremely easy to adapt to the frame, provided unquestionable strength (the dif of choice in the drifting crowd), super LSD performance and available in a ratio (3.54) between those used by the stock M3 and the full-race M3. I commissioned Kevin at Constant Velocity of Ocalla (FL) to design a set of rear axles utilizing CV-Joints and able to take the added stress of HP I was going to throw at them. As with everything on this car, they weren’t cheap but without question one of the most required parts to change out which many Mod’ers forgo when hopping up a TR6.
I had the entire interior of the tub, fender wells, trunk area and bottom of the tub shot by the local Rhino Liner shop after blasting and priming. This stuff totally encapsulates all the known rust areas for future protection and offered an indescribable reduction in noise and heat and increase in solidity. For the body, I chose a BMW M3 color, Imolla Red II which is a beautiful deep and slightly dark red. The body is completely assembled with Stainless Steel Fasteners to alleviate any future corrosion and they simply look nice and actual DumDum was sourced in the UK to seal the seams between the fenders/wings and tub. I shaved off the front side markers on the fenders and door locks to clean it up a little but left the original front turn signals under the grill to accommodate state laws. New front and rear light assemblies were installed too. Included is another Bullet Mirror for the passenger door which I have not installed as I preferred the look…not required in the State of KS. The hood / bonnet cable has been removed in favor of a direct release rod courtesy of Macy’s Garage so no worries about stuck hoods because of broken cables. No other body mods were made as I truly wanted to keep it in stock form to any on-looker.
One of the weakest points to any British car is the original electrics and wiring. I contacted Dan Masters of Advance Auto Wire who makes an over-the-top 21st century designed wiring kit for several makes of Brits and had him make me a custom harness for my project. The heart of the system is a power block that utilizes individual fuses for all circuits and relays for all heavy load items just as on current vehicles. It probably added 25bls to the car in copper as the wire gauge was quite oversized compared to the original but well worth the trade off. All the instruments were switched to electric models from AutoMeter and incorporated with the harness. I also replaced all indicator bulbs with high output LEDs. Once I completely ran the new wiring, I removed it before termination and “snake-skinned” the entire thing. Most would have just zip-tied it all but I really can’t handle the mess associated with typical aftermarket harnesses so it truly looks stock. I have wired in a CD/Stereo unit but haven’t felt the need to cut in speakers as the note of the exhaust is all the music I needed (removable 6x9’s in boxes included). The wires are run so if you desire music, just add speakers. The Optima battery has been relocated to the right rear trunk area mounted in a custom keeper and a main battery cut-off switch is mounted on the firewall with the kill-key extending into the glove box for easy access. Both the fuse block and BMW computer are mounted inside the passenger foot well safe from any contact with exterior water or hazards and out of sight.
The true Custom Interior, hand crafted by Russ & Bob Edwards (local hot-rod legends), is outfitted with Heated Miata Seats. They are trimmed in Tan Garret Aviation Leather along with all the other interior panels which are piped in a contrasting brown (no Naugats were skinned or harmed as I went the cow skin route rather than Naugahyde). The carpet is tan Wilton Wool w/ Contrasting Binding and has been installed in a fashion that the floor pieces can be removed on the instance they get wet. The window regulators, channels and seals were all replaced with new units that, believe it or not, don’t rattle. New seat belts were installed as well and included will be a set of Harnesses for track days. I never particularly liked the TR6 top mechanism as it just sits like a lump behind the seats and detracts from the clean lines of the car. I took this opportunity to modify the bows from an early TR4 as a replacement as it affords for the complete removal of the soft top for stowage in the trunk and the bows tuck out of sight behind an interior panel. The windshield frames between the two cars are the same but I did change the top finisher to the TR4 as its soft top fastens at the front to a lip under this. I never had the intention of purposely driving the car in foul weather but did feel it important to have an emergency plan just in case I got caught out in the rain. I contacted Randy Keller of Prestige Auto Wood to craft me a custom dash laid out in the stock form but for use with the AutoMeter instruments and LED indicators. I chose Hawaiian Fiddle Back Koa Wood for this and he also matched a panel for the switch plinth. The visors, mirrors, crash pads, windshield trim, etc. are all replaced with new. An insulated poly transmission tunnel has also been added to replace the original cardboard unit. Back in the trunk, I replaced the original fuel tank with a 16 gallon custom made aluminum unit that resides in the spare tire well. Lastly, I liberarally installed Dyna Mat all over the place. When you close the doors, it sounds like a modern car’s door…solid. By far, this is the quietest Brit I’ve ever driven which removes all distraction from the sweet sounds of the BMW Engine.
The 17x8 3-piece wheels are BMW Style 5 Composites made by BBS and are found on 5-Series Sport Models; my favorite style of all time and they look perfect on my TR6. I was not willing to settle for any type of adapter plate to mount them and as luck worked out, the offsets were perfect. I sent them out to a shop in CA who specializes in wheel customization and they disassembled them, filled and re-drilled the centers for the TR6 bolt pattern, sent the centers out for powder coat and polished the rims. I was able to remove the BMW emblems from the center caps and with a little modification install the TR6 chrome emblems with red stickers in their place. They absolutely look factory. I wrapped them with 225/45/17 Falken Azenis RT-615 tires which are a new class of DOT and SCCA Spec race approved tires. They are a little more suitable for daily driving than the typical “R” compound tire while providing exceptional grip.
Bottom-line, this is definitely one of the most unique sports cars you’ll ever come across. It was built with the idea of supreme performance and to withstand the tortures of daily driving without compromise. I wanted the illusion that this engine was factory installed so you won’t find any “bling” under the hood, all business (with the exception of the polished aluminum radiator cowling). Every single nut, bolt, washer, seal, grommet, clip, etc. was replaced on the car with new equivalents of higher grade and if a part was available new, it was replaced. I’m quite certain I’ve missed a few important points in this description but you really have to see and drive this TR6 to truly appreciate what it’s all about – Beauty – Simplicity – Performance.
Please don’t hesitate to contact me and thanks for your interest. I have a great shipping resource and can get this shipped anywhere in the US enclosed very inexpensively.
00 + 1 + 816 + 863 8600 (cell)
I’ve had a few questions regarding weights so I took her down to my office and put her on four individual airplane wheel scales:
· 2405 lbs Total – Approx 12 gallons of fuel – no driver
· 1170 lbs Front – 49% - 587 lbs LF / 583 lbs RF
· 1235 lbs Rear – 51% - 614 lbs LR / 621lbs RR
*** Please Note, I sold my TR6/M3 earlier to a gentleman from San Diego that flew in and found that he simply couldn't fit comfortably in her with the cage. I am 5' 11" with a 32"-33" inseam and had the driving position and cage designed to fit me like a glove. If you are taller than 6' 1" it's going to be tight inside and you may need to modify or remove the cage (bolted in to the frame) to allow the seat to travel further back (3"-4" capable).***
I have put 700 miles on her since the original sale so she's now sitting right at 2,300 miles since completion. I also tweaked a few items since the last listing so I took some fresh pictures out in front of my home; you'll see the upgrades when comparing the pics lower on the page that were shot earlier down at my hangar.
1. Installed Driver Side Bullet Mirror
2. Had clear bra installed on wheel wells and front side of rear fenders to protect from road debris
3. Painted the pinch weld on bottom of rockers black
4. Added 6x9 Speakers in Boxes (removable)
5. Added stainless exhaust tips
6. Fresh polish and wax
More restoration pics: