For the 1985 Pattern smocks the NATO format was used along with a new NATO format giving just height and chest size for example 180 112 which is for someone 180cm tall with a 112cm chest. Both formats were also used in the 1994 pattern smocks. CS95 and later smocks also use both the newer NATO formats. Other NATO countries use the same formats but with slight differences to the measurements. A button on hood that attached to the buttons for the shoulder epaulettes and a single button on the collar was supplied for the combat smocks. There were two sizes, size 1 and size 2 surprisingly. Size 1 was for smock sizes 1, 2, 4, 5 and 7. Size 2 was for smock sizes 3, 6 8 and 9. A different style of button on hood was supplied for the CS 95 and S2000 smocks. The Parka Middle issued from the 50's through to the advent of the DPM parka known as the Falklands parka also came in 9 sizes with two button on hood sizes.
The 1953 pattern smocks were made of a heavier better quality material (Sateen) than the later 1960 pattern smocks. They also had a full lining inside made of poplin and had square elbow patches. The sleeves had armpit vents and were of a straight and much tighter design than the later 60 pattern smocks. Early 60 pattern smocks up to about 1963 were carried over from the 53 pattern but had a half lining made of poplin. After 1963 the sleeves were a much looser design and had oval elbow patches. After 1968 the format of the labels changed from giving measurements for height and chest size in inches to the NATO format of a metric range for height and chest size ie 7080 0515. From around 1968 the 60 pattern smocks were manufactured in the familiar DPM camouflage pattern. Most of these that I have seen have a brown poplin lining instead of the green one in the 60 pattern smocks.
I have been told that the 1968 pattern smocks were issued from around 1972, they were of a similar design to the 60 pattern smocks with several improvements / changes such as a return to the full poplin lining, a full length zip and a field dressing pocket on the left arm, but without the stitched stand and fall collar or the elasticated lower pockets. Early 68 pattern DPM smocks had small dots around the camo shapes and were in fairly light colours. After about 1975 the smocks were made of a lighter grade material with a looser weave and the dots disappeared from the camo print. The shades also changed although some jackets I have seen have a mix of early and later print material. I have been told that altogether there have been over 30 different variations to the DPM pattern. I have seen early and later versions on both the 84 / 85 and 90 / 94 pattern smocks alongside the much later DPM patterns. From personal experience I can tell you that all smocks between 1953 and 1968 weighed around 600 pounds when wet and took an eternity to dry.
The 84 / 85 pattern was an attempt to rectify problems encountered with the earlier smocks but ended up being just an exercise in cost cutting and so became the least popular pattern of combat clothing for many years. It was similar in design to the 68 pattern smocks but early examples were badly made. These defects were eventually rectified but the 84 / 85 pattern was replaced by what is known as either the 1990 pattern or 1994 pattern smock with its two way zip, cavernous zip fastened map pockets alongside the chest pockets and large buttons that were easy to use in all climates. The Combat Soldier 95 pattern followed soon after in a lighter Ripstop material and that was replaced by the S2000 pattern, a similar style of smock but in a heavier cotton modal material similar to the 90 / 94 pattern. Please feel free to contact me for more info or with any corrections you may feel are necessary.