Car Buyers check list - Triumph GT6 / Spitfire

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CAR Check list. (GT6 / Spitfire)   Please vote if you find this helpfull :-)

Check V5 Water mark compare to known good V5  
Check V5 Address matches purchase location  
Check VIN matches car VIN and that VIN is Original  
Check engine No. Matches V5  
Check Car Details - Model, Colour  
Previous Receipt for car - Proof of ownership  
Check MOT water mark and expire date check to known good MOT  
Initial Checks  
Check for filler with magnet along arches and lower areas of panels and doors, Check for ripples hollows or bumps in panels which could be filler.  
Check Chrome for pitting or rust.  
Check door and bonnet alignment  
Bounce check suspension - one bounce only.  
Switch on all electrical items. fans, lights, indicators, head, side, rear, brake, interior and dash board and reversing lights. Windscreen wipers.  
Check windscreen for bad scratches  
Check tyres for uneven wear - indicating alignment problems  
Body work checks  
Check Bonnet, wheel arches, bonnet clasps, side lights for rust  
Check bonnet top for twisting or distortion  
Open bonnet check behind lights and around inner wheel arches  
Check bonnet hinge by rocking open bonnet  
Check bulkhead bottom and sides for rust - no repair panels available  
Check Lower part of A-Post and sill  
Check windscreen side pillars behind seals - no replacements available  
Check sills inner and outer and alignment with doors for  body sag - if car has bad body sag walk away.  
Open door and check bottom of doors for corrosion  
Check foot wells for corrosion near A-Post check inner sills  
Check seat belt mountings - difficult area to repair  
Remove carpet from heal board and check for cracks where rear suspension attaches.  
Check inner wheel arches and sill ends and lower wing. Suspension attaches to inner wing.  
Check boot floor and sides for corrosion and crash damage  
Check hatch hinges and rear edge of hatch  
Check condition of Spare are wheel, jack, handle, tools present  
Check seals and locks, look for corrosion inside boot.  
Check Dash board for cracks extra instruments badges.  
Check carpets are good  
Check seats, headlining  for damage, check seat frame isn’t broken  
Check operation of window winders and door locks  
Check seat belts are not frayed and are securely mounted, buckles working, inertia reel locks.  
Check sunroof operation and seals  

Check oil, water, clutch, brake fluid.  
Check fan belt tension  
Check oil filler cap for emulsion  
Start engine listen for crankshaft rumble ok for few seconds.  
Depress clutch listen for whirr of worn bearing  
Move gear level through all gears - sizzle indicates worn bushes  
Listen and look for holes in exhaust  
Check engine is now ok with no choke and low tappet / timing chain noise  
Listen for knocking - work gudgeon  
Listen to alternator and distributor for bearing noise  
Inspect service items - air oil filters  
Release hand brake roll car and check handbrake stops it   
Check steering wheel and front wheel movement for play. Rock up and down to check for worn column bushes  
Close inspection  
Check wiring loom for condition and damage  
Check for oil or water leaks and condition of hoses  
Check engine mountings for damage  
Check condition of battery well and battery terminals - how old is battery  
Check carbs and pipes for petrol leaks check throttle spindles for play  
Check rack mounting - someone inside to move wheel.  
Check for contamination of rubbers -> timing cover oil leak.  
Check brake disks for scoring and check pads.  
Front underneath - car on ramps.  
Check for oil leaks from bell housing - crank shaft oil seal big job  
Oil leak from gearbox/overdrive output seal - cheap but time consuming.  
Check front shocks condition and condition of springs  
Place screw driver between lower wishbone and trunion try to level apart. Movement indicates worn trunions or oval whish bone mount. Same with shock to see if bush is soft.  
Check chassis where suspension attaches for kinks or cracks caused by crash damage - walk away if found.  
Check front out riggers particularly at ends, check car foot pan above them this is difficult to repair.  
Check middle outriggers, middle chassis and floor pan. Prod at any suspected rust to check if it is structural.  
Rear underneath - car on ramps.  
Check rear heal board from underneath for corrosion especially near suspension attachment points. Check seatbelt mounting points from the other side.  
Check shock mounting towers carefully  
Check chassis centre sections probe for rust on chassis around differential mounting area. Corrosion here is very serious an can be impossible to repair. No repair sections for this area.  
Check for movement in differential, axle mountings,  and U/Js. Slightest movement between yokes means new U/Js.  
Check for oil leaks from differential oil seal  
Check exhaust system  
Check brake pipes and hoses and handbrake cable  
Check rotoflex joints for rubber coming away from metal plates.  
Check again for rust in the inner wheel arches where the dampers mount. This is difficult and expensive to repair. Check boot underside for corrosion.  
Check lower quarters carefully as rear panels need to be replaced to fix.  
Examine rear spring for sagging, broken leaves or excessive corrosion  
Test rear trunions as per front.  
Wheels off ground- check bearings for slack. Some slight play is acceptable.  
Restart engine for a warm start check and listen to it carefully again.  

GT6  Road test 

Start up and check starter motor noise grating from ring.  
Move off slowly in reverse check if noisy or jumps out of gear  
Move off in first listen for rear end clonks  
Increase speed work through gear box. No Baulking, no crunch.  
Accelerate hard in third listen for bearing noise. Lift off suddenly  look for lifting in gear lever.  
Try overdrive on both 3rd and 4th. Some hesitation ok on none on off.  
Cruising at 50mph tickle accelerator on and off listen for rear end noise. Knocking  U/Js, rumble on overrun weak diff.  
At 50 slip clutch rev up and release. Clean bite, if not clutch worn.  
Labour car up hill listen for crankshaft bearing noise and pinking. Slight pinking OK.  
Check for tendency to pull. Then apply brake and check balance is good.  
Apply hand brake at very low speed 5-10mph - don’t lock it, check for pulling.  
Check for front wheel vibration and prop-shaft vibration. Prop difficult to cure.  
Test suspension by braking hard, check for bonnet dip or roll to one side.  
Check for blue smoke behind on over run and on acceleration.   
Listen for wheel bearing rumble. If it changes with cornering its wheels, all the time diff.  
Check for misfiring when warm  
Watch temp gauge, check heater works.  
End of roar test check tick over 600-800 RPM. If higher adjust to check its not hiding fault.  
Open bonnet and recheck engine for fumes, oil, water leaks. Fumes from oil filler - blocked crank breather or excessive engine ware.  
Turn off engine check radiator and expansion bottle for boiling up.  
Recheck dip stick for signs of water - Head gasket or cracked head.  

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