CAR Check list. (GT6 / Spitfire) Please vote if you find this helpfull :-)
Check V5 Water mark compare to known good V5
Check V5 Address matches purchase location
Check VIN matches car VIN and that VIN is Original
Check engine No. Matches V5
Check Car Details - Model, Colour
Previous Receipt for car - Proof of ownership
Check MOT water mark and expire date check to known good MOT
Check for filler with magnet along arches and lower areas of panels and doors, Check for ripples hollows or bumps in panels which could be filler.
Check Chrome for pitting or rust.
Check door and bonnet alignment
Bounce check suspension - one bounce only.
Switch on all electrical items. fans, lights, indicators, head, side, rear, brake, interior and dash board and reversing lights. Windscreen wipers.
Check windscreen for bad scratches
Check tyres for uneven wear - indicating alignment problems
Body work checks
Check Bonnet, wheel arches, bonnet clasps, side lights for rust
Check bonnet top for twisting or distortion
Open bonnet check behind lights and around inner wheel arches
Check bonnet hinge by rocking open bonnet
Check bulkhead bottom and sides for rust - no repair panels available
Check Lower part of A-Post and sill
Check windscreen side pillars behind seals - no replacements available
Check sills inner and outer and alignment with doors for body sag - if car has bad body sag walk away.
Open door and check bottom of doors for corrosion
Check foot wells for corrosion near A-Post check inner sills
Check seat belt mountings - difficult area to repair
Remove carpet from heal board and check for cracks where rear suspension attaches.
Check inner wheel arches and sill ends and lower wing. Suspension attaches to inner wing.
Check boot floor and sides for corrosion and crash damage
Check hatch hinges and rear edge of hatch
Check condition of Spare are wheel, jack, handle, tools present
Check seals and locks, look for corrosion inside boot.
Check Dash board for cracks extra instruments badges.
Check carpets are good
Check seats, headlining for damage, check seat frame isn’t broken
Check operation of window winders and door locks
Check seat belts are not frayed and are securely mounted, buckles working, inertia reel locks.
Check sunroof operation and seals
Check oil, water, clutch, brake fluid.
Check fan belt tension
Check oil filler cap for emulsion
Start engine listen for crankshaft rumble ok for few seconds.
Depress clutch listen for whirr of worn bearing
Move gear level through all gears - sizzle indicates worn bushes
Listen and look for holes in exhaust
Check engine is now ok with no choke and low tappet / timing chain noise
Listen for knocking - work gudgeon
Listen to alternator and distributor for bearing noise
Inspect service items - air oil filters
Release hand brake roll car and check handbrake stops it
Check steering wheel and front wheel movement for play. Rock up and down to check for worn column bushes
Check wiring loom for condition and damage
Check for oil or water leaks and condition of hoses
Check engine mountings for damage
Check condition of battery well and battery terminals - how old is battery
Check carbs and pipes for petrol leaks check throttle spindles for play
Check rack mounting - someone inside to move wheel.
Check for contamination of rubbers -> timing cover oil leak.
Check brake disks for scoring and check pads.
Front underneath - car on ramps.
Check for oil leaks from bell housing - crank shaft oil seal big job
Oil leak from gearbox/overdrive output seal - cheap but time consuming.
Check front shocks condition and condition of springs
Place screw driver between lower wishbone and trunion try to level apart. Movement indicates worn trunions or oval whish bone mount. Same with shock to see if bush is soft.
Check chassis where suspension attaches for kinks or cracks caused by crash damage - walk away if found.
Check front out riggers particularly at ends, check car foot pan above them this is difficult to repair.
Check middle outriggers, middle chassis and floor pan. Prod at any suspected rust to check if it is structural.
Rear underneath - car on ramps.
Check rear heal board from underneath for corrosion especially near suspension attachment points. Check seatbelt mounting points from the other side.
Check shock mounting towers carefully
Check chassis centre sections probe for rust on chassis around differential mounting area. Corrosion here is very serious an can be impossible to repair. No repair sections for this area.
Check for movement in differential, axle mountings, and U/Js. Slightest movement between yokes means new U/Js.
Check for oil leaks from differential oil seal
Check exhaust system
Check brake pipes and hoses and handbrake cable
Check rotoflex joints for rubber coming away from metal plates.
Check again for rust in the inner wheel arches where the dampers mount. This is difficult and expensive to repair. Check boot underside for corrosion.
Check lower quarters carefully as rear panels need to be replaced to fix.
Examine rear spring for sagging, broken leaves or excessive corrosion
Test rear trunions as per front.
Wheels off ground- check bearings for slack. Some slight play is acceptable.
Restart engine for a warm start check and listen to it carefully again.
GT6 Road test
Start up and check starter motor noise grating from ring.
Move off slowly in reverse check if noisy or jumps out of gear
Move off in first listen for rear end clonks
Increase speed work through gear box. No Baulking, no crunch.
Accelerate hard in third listen for bearing noise. Lift off suddenly look for lifting in gear lever.
Try overdrive on both 3rd and 4th. Some hesitation ok on none on off.
Cruising at 50mph tickle accelerator on and off listen for rear end noise. Knocking U/Js, rumble on overrun weak diff.
At 50 slip clutch rev up and release. Clean bite, if not clutch worn.
Labour car up hill listen for crankshaft bearing noise and pinking. Slight pinking OK.
Check for tendency to pull. Then apply brake and check balance is good.
Apply hand brake at very low speed 5-10mph - don’t lock it, check for pulling.
Check for front wheel vibration and prop-shaft vibration. Prop difficult to cure.
Test suspension by braking hard, check for bonnet dip or roll to one side.
Check for blue smoke behind on over run and on acceleration.
Listen for wheel bearing rumble. If it changes with cornering its wheels, all the time diff.
Check for misfiring when warm
Watch temp gauge, check heater works.
End of roar test check tick over 600-800 RPM. If higher adjust to check its not hiding fault.
Open bonnet and recheck engine for fumes, oil, water leaks. Fumes from oil filler - blocked crank breather or excessive engine ware.
Turn off engine check radiator and expansion bottle for boiling up.
Recheck dip stick for signs of water - Head gasket or cracked head.