Cleaning Up Your Model.
I find it important to remove flash lines from the model, flash lines are the lines left on the model during the manufacturing process, where plastic has leaked from the mold, if left they often leave unsightly lines across your nicely painted model, and if you use any dry brushing on our model they will pick up the paint instead of the details you are attempting to dry brush, the flash lines are simply removed by gently filing them down with a small file, or if a plastic model you can scrape them away with your cutting tool blade, either way works, just be careful if you are using the blade, I tend to scrape them just like you would when peeling a potato
Priming your models is essential, by spraying your models with a suitable primer (I use GW Chaos Black Spray) by applying a primer you not give you paint an excellent smooth key layer to adhere to but you can also darken the recesses of your model, which is your first step to giving your model definition.
Remember the normal precautions when spraying mentioned earlier in the blog, make sure you get an even coat all over the model, turning the model in between sprays, when spraying you should ideally start spraying off of the model then move the spray slowly over your model in gentle strokes, this will prevent build ups of paint on your model which will obscure the model details should the spray spit large amounts out, also when spraying remember your can should be held about 20cm from the model, again to prevent build up of paint on the model.
I find it best to spray my models in batches of 5 - 10 models, I spray them all once from the front, allow this to dry for 5 Min's or so, then repeat this each time turning the models about 90 degrees each turn until the entire model is coated properly.
Some models may need you to lay them down to get at the underside, do this first if you wish, or last once other paint has dried, so that you don't smudge earlier spray coverings.
I now leave these to dry in a well ventilated area, normally over night, but they will be dry enough to paint on within the hour if you so wish.
With my space marines, I give all the armour, helmet and backpack a base coat of Mordian Blue Foundation pain, being careful not to let the paint run into the recesses on the armour or onto any parts that need to remain black, like the flexible bits on the back of the knee joints, again I work with about 5 - 10 models at a time, much like a factory assembly line, moving on to the next model each time I complete the base coat, by the time you get to the last model in a batch the first one is dry ready for the second part of the process.
The rims of the Space Marines shoulder pads, as well as any other areas that were going to be gold, were painted with Scorched Brown. Brown leather areas were painted with Scorched Brown, while parchment was painted with Khemri Brown. The Space Marines eye lenses, as well as the wax on the purity seal were painted with Scab Red.
All the parts that were to be metallic (Like the bolt gun, grenades etc) were painted with Bolt gun Metal. Lastly, areas that would later be painted white or stone were base coated with Codex Grey. Any areas that would be black on the finished model I leave unpainted, and as often as I have to do I touch up these areas with Chaos Black if other colours had strayed onto them.
Next I go back over the areas of scorched brown that are going to be gold with a layer of Shining Gold.
Give em a wash!
No I don't take them up to the bathroom and wash them! this is where citadel washes come in, these are excellent items, The space marine is given two washes. The first was of Gryphonne Sepia which I cover the gold and parchment areas, and the second was of Badab Black and covered the rest of the models, now just sit back and let this dry properly for about an hour or so, The washes will gently colour the models, but most importantly will pool in recessed areas adding to the definition of the model.
Once the washes from the previous stage are completely dry, I highlighted the armour with Ultramarines Blue, I do this using a fine detail brush, giving the model a very thin line along all the hard edges of the model. Then I go back over the gold was highlighting again with Shining Gold and the metallic areas were highlighted with Mithrill Silver. I highlight the brown areas with Scorched Brown, the parchment with Bleached Bone and any red areas with Blood Red. The areas that are going to be painted white or stone (like the Tactical marking on the shoulder pad) were painted with Fortress Grey. Lastly, the black areas were highlighted with Adeptus Battle grey and given another wash of Badab Black.
At this stage you have a reasonably painted space marine, ready for the table, but if you wish to go that little bit further you can add a second level of highlighting.
detailing the models further. The armour can now carefully highlighted with either Fortress Grey or ice blue, the choice is yours and the gold with a 50/50 mix of Shining Gold and mithrill silver, just getting the edges of the gold rim, and the very tips of the feathers on the crest on the chest. The brown was highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Scorched Brown and Bleached Bone again only on the very thin edges. The metal was highlighted with Chainmail and the parchment was highlighted with Skull White. The red areas were highlighted with a very fine highlight of Blazing Orange
All that was left to do, was apply the decals that came with the AOBR set, giving each of the marines a Ultramarines symbol on their left shoulder.
Next was the base, some people are happy just to paint them to match the gaming table, which is OK, but for me I like to add a little more detail, Again in my humble opinion, a reasonably painted model looks 10 times better if the base is done well, it sets the model off from the base.
How I paint Ultramarines 2nd Company
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16 March 2011
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