Improved braking on a Series Landrover. This will only work on Landrovers fitted with a brake servo.
Initially leave the current brake vacuum system intact, because you may need to drive your Landrover to get parts.
First get a "military" double water pump pulley from wherever you normally get used spares. Fit this to the water pump boss. It is held on by 4 x 10mm bolts if I remember. Obtain a "Peugeot" vacuum pump from a scrapyard, make sure that you also get the tension arm (a curved metal bracket with a slot in it which bolts to the pump). The pump has a double hole mount cast into the body of the unit, similar to the mountings on an alternator.
Fabricate a mounting bracket to fit one of the holes in the pump body. i made the bracket from a piece of inch by eighth of an inch steel bar - you could make the bracket fancier to use both holes, but I didn't & mine hasn't fallen off yet ...... !
The pump mounts on the driver's side. At the front of the engine, drill the bracket to take the bolts to fix it both to the engine & pump. i fitted my pump bracket to the timing case cover, just undo the top bolt & fit the pump with its new mounting to this. The bracket will need a double bend, so that the pump pulley lines up with the double pulley on the water pump. Bend this in a vice, not on the timing cover or pump ........!
Next make a bracket from two pieces of scrap angle, to fit on the thermostat housing. again, no new holes need to be drilled, just use one of the existing thermostat cover bolts. This bracket is self-explanatory if you first bolt on your pump to the timing cover. It is to tension the driving belt. Assemble the unit & leave the tension arm slack.
Next get a piece of string ..........
Feed it around both pulleys to get the length of "v" belt required. i went to "Halfords" & bought a "v" belt from there. I fitted it in the car park - just in case I got the wrong one, so I could take it back to the shop.
Use the curved arm to tension the belt just like on an alternator. tighten the bolts & drive home.
One or two important points. when you buy the pump, remove the cover to inspect the diaphragm but do not tip it up or the oil runs out (as I found out). if there is little or no oil in the unit, top it up with some motor oil. The pump is a simple diaphragm type with a cam & pushrod drive. if this runs dry, the pump will fail. Do not lose the spring loaded inlet & outlet valves as you dismantle the unit. (re-assembly is the opposite of dis-assembly)
Remove the butterfly unit on the end of the inlet manifold. Discard the internal moving bit. (I bored mine out a bit in the lathe, to get more air in ......!) this isn't essential. but in either case, block up the butterfly shaft holes. I used Allen key headed domed bolts from the inside & "Nyloc" nuts on the outside.
Then connect the servo to the pipe on the pump that sucks, & the other pipe to the original valve on the inlet manifold. your old landrover will then actually stop when you gently press the brake pedal..
Iv'e fitted these pumps to both of my Landrovers, (re-builds of 1960 & 1971 models) the conversion so far is very successful.