XJ600 Diversion. What you need to know.

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If you use a dealer (stealer) then this guide is not for you. This is a bike I have done thousands of miles on all year round without missing one day. This is a great all rounder but like anything else it has it's faults. First off, if you use one of these bikes in the winter, the first thing that will pack up is the front caliper or calipers if you have a later model. They will seize up for sure and the remedy is a stripdown and maybe new seals or even pistons. Easy and pretty cheap to do but still hassle. The exhausts go off quickly with the downpipe/silencer clamps rusting away first. Easy fix. Use some car exhaust clamps. Weld it if you think it's gone too far and this will give you maybe two years before it gives up. If you fit a four into one, there is not a lot of choice out there. Motad, and that's really it and they are not cheap especially if the bike was cheap to start with, it can leave a bad taste in the mouth. They sound crap too. I bought a second hand Nexxus system off eBay for £40 which was not brilliant but will last a while yet. Then it gets welded. Original system! forget it. They will cost more than the bike is worth if it an older model. If you get 18000 miles out of these you are living on borrowed time. Then it's a Motad (they sound crap). The downside of the Motad system will be discovered when you come to change the oil. The drain plug is hidden by the exhaust. Simple remedy. Slacken all the header Allen bollts without taking them off, then slacken off the silencer 17mm mounting bolt by the rear offside footrest. You can just push the system over enough to get a 17mm socket on. Don't forget to tighten every thing up after you've finished. Yamaha switch gear has always had problems. I have owned twenty one Yamahas and with the exception of two, the switchgear played up. They corrode at the contacts. In some cases because of this, they will short out in use and get hot. The metal contact then melts into the housing and then fails to make a circuit. If you are an all weather rider, open the switchgear housings and clean the whole caboodle. Do this once a month or you will be spending money on replacements. Stick a mudflap on the front mudguard. You can buy Fenda extendas which are very pretty and cost £20 or go to the pound shop and buy a plastic container with a black lid. Throw the container into next doors garden then cut the lid into a flap about five inches long, drill and bolt it to the mudguard. Do a tidy job. You can shape it with a scissors and it looks proper tidy. Without a flap, water and mud (and salt!) go straight up onto the coils and all the electrical connections below them corrode and fall apart. And then you will come to a stop. These are the wires from the ignition switch. You have been warned. Change the oil every 3000 miles. Always. These engines draw in a lot of moisture. Unscrew the filler cap and look at the white emulsified gunge underneath. You can see this in the oil level window also on occasions. If you are using the bike for short journeys, it ain't getting to working temperature so the oil is not hot enough to evaporate off the old H2o. This will rust the insides over time. Change the oil regularly. And don,t put cheap oil in. This is one area you must spend. Get the best you can afford. Not synthetic. The clutch won't like it. Talking off clutches, I bet yours rattles! It is the norm with these bikes. The pin in the oil pump drive sprocket which is behind the clutch basket was a design fault from the factory and becomes loose. If you take out the clutch assembly and remove the basket and replace the pin (which is 5mm) with a new one (must be 5.5mm or maybe more depending on wear) it will cure it in most cases. Don't be tempted to use a drill bit shank as it is too brittle. An engineering shop will put you right . While your at it, check the thrust bearing. These suffer failure due to water damage resulting from the engine being used on short journeys and  not getting to temperature. You get a sludgy build up inside the casing of watery oil which works wonders on anything steel. You will know if this is on its way out when you find it difficult to get into gear.  You should get at least 50mpg. If not, check the carb balance. They go out easy but it's not that noticeable. Also, when they are balanced, a lot of other rattles will go away and the bike will feel completely different as far as performance is concerned.  Shims are a pain to set up but not difficult. Take it to a stealer if your not sure how to do it right and bite something hard when you pay for it. This bike is a dispatcher's favourite which says a lot about how reliable that motor is. 100,000 miles is attainable with these motors and more. Change the oil! There is no power band. None. But surprisingly lots of midrange torque with few gear changes required for everyday riding and great around town. Excellent two up bike and with luggage, a very good middleweight tourer.The only way you could pull the opposite sex with this bike is if you tour Kazakhstan with it.  Highly recommended steed all the same. Please take the time to vote on this guide if it was any help. It only takes a moment of your time and is highly appreciated. Thank you.
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