kmx 125/200 tuning

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tuning these bikes are fairly easy, whip out the restrictor in the exhaust grind out 3 bits ov spot weld job done. the kips arm has adjustability via an 8 mm nut on top of the arm kick start side slacken and pull the rod arm out gently and retighten job done take off the reed valve and there is a pink plastic guide aint sure if this is actually a restrictor but i whip them out anyhow. feeling competent enough to take off the cylinder head remove the metal gasket and use sealent thus altering the port timing slightly and increasing conpression ratio u can do the same for the top gasket if u like thats it for free power apart from knife edging the transfer ports at the bottom of the barrol and the usual removing off casting marks throughout DO NOT POLISH TO A SHINE!!!!!!! the reason for this is atomisation of fuel. if you have a 200 barrol for sum reason they have alumimium power valves BIN THEM and buy the steel versions there are uprated ecus to be bought uprated exhausts different air filter. as for the exhaust i kept mine standard frount and rear but i use to take off the deflector and end cap pull out the wadding then put the cap back on . why u ask well lets jst say for sum reason this method allows the bike to whistle yea you read right whistle try it n see wht you think mine was guarenteed to turn heads and i was the envy of others as i wouldnt tell them what i had done as for the 200 the best remedy i found was to just stick the barrol onto the 125 bottom end i aint sure if the gear ratios are different or that the powervalve spring is a little more taught on the 200 but swapping it over made it a little more lively. and finally to all 125 owners buy a 200 basically cuz the suspension is of better quality frount forks have bleed valves for built up air and the rear swing arm is ally and rear suspension has booster bottle the only thing to look out for is the 200 back wheel is 17inch making tires a little dearer good tire upgrades are avon gripsters.
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