How to choose the right steering for your boat.

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Advice on mechanical steering systems and how to measure cables:


Though measurements are mentioned here in CM’s the cables we supply are in 1 foot increments
The steering system itself comprises of wheel, helm, bezel to fit helm to dash and steering cable (See image ABOVE), ALL STEERINGS are the SAME spec in terms of cable travel and how they work, you feed he cable in one side of the helm, it wraps round the gear inside and comes out the other side.  You fit the helm to the dash using the mounting kit supplied and the shaft on the helm is a standard ¾” taper with a woodruffe key to locate the steering wheel (NOT splines like a car)  ¾” taper is STANDARD on all boat helms.  ON SOME Helms the cable can be fed in either side of the helm and you can obviously bring the cable from the right or the left of the motor.  BEFORE you fit it think about how the boat turns and MAKE SURE how you have configured it will allow the BOAT to TURN RIGHT when you want to TURN RIGHT !!  Image above (right) shows the engine end of the cable, stainless rod and the large nut mentioned.





TILT TUBE MOUNTING:  All NEW steering Cables come with a large nut on the end of

the cable that threads on to a metal tube that passes through the front of most motors (Image Right there is a threaded tube at the front of the motor, the steering cable passes through here and the large nut does up tight on this thread), this tube is found at the point that the motor hinges around when tilted up and down.  Through tilt is the BEST option to use, HOWEVER older motors and small hp 10 and less often do not have this fitting, then you have to use one of the other options.  To connect the end of the steering cable to the front of the motor you will need a DRAG LINK, these are supplied with all NEW remote control motors.  We do have generic ones that will fit most engines, see part 1289 below. (And you can see the item in use above connecting from the end of the steering cable back to the front of the motor)  The Image (below) also shows how through tilt steering looks when assembled.  If your engine is in a well make sure there is enough room for the cable to travel out the far side and not hit the side of the boat, if there is not enough room you need to use a splash well kit even if you have a through tilt tube on the motor.


TRANSOM CABLE MOUNT   This option you use when you do not have a through tilt tube (Part 229 to the left)  You will also need to connect the steering cable end to the motor and here you use Part 231 (to the left) a Clevis Kit.  Obviously you need to have something on the front of the motor to connect the steering cable to and many NON REMOTE CONTROL motors only have a simple handle not the TILLER PLATE or TILLER BAR that a remote control motor has.  Here you need to select from 243, 247, 245, 242, 3471 to the left for the plate that best suits your handle.
SPLASH WELL CABLE MOUNT  This option you use when the engine is in a well and you do not have room for either through tilt or the transom clamp (Part 230 to the left)  You also need the clevis kit and the tiller plate for this option.


TRANSOM KIT (Part 1167: LEFT)  Splash well and transom clamp options only suit upto 55 hp, this will work upto 115 hp if you do not have a through tilt tube on the motor.

Shown here on the left is a selection of other steering parts. not all listed on E Bay, that we can supply,

The BEST option by far for steering in a boat is HYDRAULIC

 We have these kits listed in E Bay and they come with hoses that can be cut to length, there are different kits for different makes and models of engine so contact us BEFORE you order to make surte you are getting the right kit.

BARNET MARINE CENTRE LTD,  14 West Burrowfield, Welwyn Garden City, Herts, AL7 4TW.
TEL NOS; + 44 (0) 1707 331 389

Whilst cables and helms are available separately we find that they wear together and placing a new cable in an old helm seldom works as one damages the other and then they have to all be replaced !

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