Mr. Gingery has written a first-rate DIY book on building a TF machine that includes the heater. Most DIY TF machines use a houshold oven as the heater. Unfortunately, the smell of hot plastic does not bode well with the people who frequent the kitchen. Gingery takes the high road, recommending a 120V heater that works well, is inexpensive, and doesn't stink up the place. There are several primary elements to a TF machine. The heater is one. I recommend that anyone making Gingery's machine invest in an inexpensive infrared thermometer. Check with Harbor Freight on this. Max temp - 400F. This ensures that every sheet is heated to precisely the same temperature. Another element is the boat jack. Harbor Freight does not carry the one Gingery recommends and so the builder must improvise. I found an electric scissors jack that is ideal. Look this up in automotive or truck supplies. A third element are the guide rails. I think that Gingery's supports are too complex. I used two different diameter galv pipes, one inside the other for each of the legs. No construction to speak of. Use floor flanges to mount the outer ones to the base and the inner ones to the mold frame. For the "floor" of the mold, I use perforated MDF board. Works for both pos and neg molds. My oven is on a swivel. Once the sheet is at temperature, I swivel it away and swivel in a pushing rod or plug assist. I either mechanically activate the plug or allow the rising mold frame to impinge on the sheet, prior to applying vacuum. There are many types of vacuum systems. For most small shallow-draw parts, a simple shop-vac will do the job, even for pos molds. For deep draw parts, eBay has several 5-10 gal tanks for sale as well as a variety of vacuum pumps. I use cheap oil-less diaphragm vacuum pump from Harbor Freight to pump down a 10 gal tank. To seal off the mold frame vacuum box, I use RTV and duct tape. Here's another trick. If you have a large vacuum box below the perf MDF board, fill it with ping-pong or discarded golf balls. That cuts down on the amount of air that needs to be removed before the part begins to form. Oh, and all lines between the vacuum system and the vacuum box need to be smooth and the shorter the better. I use glued PVC piping. TFing can be fun and profitable. For example, I had a neighbor who made excellent wood boxes for a local knife mfgr. I vac formed flocked PS for the insides of his boxes. Another wanted magnetic signs for the sides of his business truck. Easy job using wood letters from Joan's. And a real winner. For a local Creative Anacronistic Society, I made 17th Century helmets and breast plates (men and women) that contained the local group's emblems. I used 0.090 ABS, Easily painted with acrylics. $$$Read full review
vacuum forming is an interesting method of producing plastic parts in various shapes. i am aware of this method for several wears, and finding a book that describes the construction of a such machine is more than interesting. this book is very accurate for some one that wants to build a machine like that but he must have the necessary mechanological skills and an access to a machining shop.
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