 |
This was proably the most popular Pentax camera for students when it was new and still is very popular for the same reasons now as it was then. Its the perfect camera to learn with. It is fully manual so means you learn about focusing as well as shutter speeds and aperture settings. The Pentax kK bayonet mount still has probably the most lenses on the market that fit it. Even the Pentax DSLR cameras of today still take the same fitting so the older lenses can be used with the digital if you go that way and leave film cameras. The meter on the K100 id easy to understand with it being just a pin that has to be in the centre to be the correct exposure. You can still by the replacement seals for the camera which is a good idea if you buy 1 and are quite easy to fit youself if you take care not to try rush it. With new seals and a careful cleaning it should last and serve you well. I have quite a few film cameras, 4 of them being Pentax but I still like the K1000 as much as the others and better than the most modern film camera I have, which is the MZ-50. The other Pentax film cameras are the P50,and my ME super, which have program modes but can still be used in manual like the K1000. I still like the ease of use and the solid build of the K1000 and prefer to use a camera in manual anyway. So it suits my needs perfectly. I cant recomend it enough as a camera to learn with and to keep for normal use too.Read full review
This is my fetish SLR camera since i was a teen. Never had the money to buy one in those days. Had a Praktica (also TOP). Praktica was 1/3 of Pentax real price. Now that i own 3 K1000 (Japan/Hong Kong and Chinese) let me say that is a fantastic camera and exceed my expectations. Robust, light and all the mechanic parts work so well after all these time. All 3 versions are ok. For a student or even for a amateur photographer (has i´m) it´s one splendid choice. Othe good feature it´s the K bayonet that let me use all a wide range of lenses. Congratulations Pentax
I start using Pentax Film Camera for 4 years. I tried almost all of Pentax SLC camera like MX or LX but, finally, I went back to K1000. K1000 is simple but enough for me to do my photography. It is small and "daily" enough to make everybody feel free with my camera. It is not fast camera like Nikon FM2 but its speed (from B-1s-1/1000s) is enough for street photography. It is not the smallest one in Pentax SLR like Pentax ME but its size is comfortable for your hand. Anyway, I love this camera and it will be the best one in my collection of Pentax Camera.
The K1000 is undoubtedly an iconic camera, and has gained a huge reputation as THE camera for students of photography to learn on. However, having had a few of these through my hands it is clear that many are now suffering the ravages of time. So, please choose carefully and make sure you buy a good one! Strangely enough, I recall seeing an Amateur Photographer test report of the K1000 from the early 1980s which highlighted the fact that neither the shutter nor the meter were particularly accurate .... and that's a camera straight out of the factory! So perhaps it's not entirely surprising to learn that K1000s approaching 35-40 years old also suffer with inaccurate meters and shutters, except that these inaccuracies are now more marked. This is perhaps not so surprising when you learn that the K1000 is a fully mechanical camera. A battery is only needed to power the meter and the shutter will operate at ALL speeds without the aid of a battery. In other words, the full range of speeds from 1 to 1/1000th second are achieved by means of springs, cogs and bearings. The problem is that many of these cameras have sat idle for many years, and springs lose their tension whilst lubricants gradually dry out and become sticky. One common problem is that when these cameras get 'put away' their owners leave the battery in, probably intending to use the camera in a few weeks time. However, after a few years these button cells start to leak corrosive acid into the battery chamber. This corrodes the contact with the wire to the meter, which often renders the meter inoperable. Thankfully this is quite an easy repair ..... but is fiddly and requires a very steady hand and good soldering technique. Even meters that are 'working' can often become inaccurate. Thankfully most are usually accurate to within half a stop. However, once the meter starts to 'die' it will become grossly inaccurate, and this inaccuracy will not be linear across the full range of light levels. I have seen really bad ones where the meter is out by 3 stops in very bright conditions, reducing to only 1 stop in dim light. However, with light meter apps on smart phones this is not so critical, as it is easy enough to do a quick check. What can be more problematic are inaccurate shutter speeds. It is possible to check shutter speeds without specialist equipment and to gain an approximate idea as to whether the shutter is accurate. However, this needs a good understanding of how a focal plane shutter works along with a bit of experience. In an attempt to quantify the accuracy of shutter speeds I recently acquired a shutter speed tester (Phochron XA) and this has been an eye opener! I have now tested the shutters of around a dozen K1000s (and KMs) and perhaps only 1 or 2 could be said to be fully reliable at all shutter speeds. It is impossible to generalise, although the majority of problems occur at the faster speeds. Not only can speeds become very inaccurate, but the exposure can vary significantly across the frame. To illustrate, I have found at least one camera where the 1/1000th speed actually timed at around 1/500th, and several others where the 1/1000th speed timed at well over 1/2000th. Not only that, but there were several where the shutter failed to open fully at 1/1000th (a problem known as tapering). Of course, print film has a wide exposure latitude and hopefully the majority of meter and shutter inaccuracies won't be evident on the negative. And don't forget, that a competent service will restore a shutter to full accuracy ..... although you will need to factor in an additional £60-70 for a service. The other certainty is that if the light seals and mirror foam haven't been replaced they will definitely need doing now. The original foam seals tend to degrade over time and decompose to a sticky black gunge. So, my message to all potential purchasers is as follows. If you are buying via an auction where there is very little information, then don't pay too much as the chances are you will have one or more of the above problems. The problem is you may not realise this until you get your first roll of film developed. It would therefore be safer to buy from someone who has replaced the light seals (with the correct materials), tested the meter and shutter operation and given you an honest assessment of how well these functions are working. A seller who does all of this, and describes every other aspect of the camera operation is truly worth buying from.Read full review
Verified purchase: No
I love this camera! It's absolutely beautiful. Everything about it is great. It's really heavy though, and i do get worried on dropping it, but that doesn't really bother me too much. It's such a great camera and I'm so happy i finally bought one. The focus on it is brilliant. It's really clear and the pictures come out so well. I prefer them to digital camera as the whole point of these camera's are for photography. It's real, and not cheating (digital is cheating!) as you do all the settings yourself and the outcome depends on you. It's a great camera for taking pictures on landscapes and scenery. But the only reason that's bad about taking pictures of scenery, you can't get much in the photo. It seems like it's been zoomed in a lot, and i don't know if that's because of the lens but hey. Other than that, this camera is perfect! 1111111/10Read full review
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Best-selling in Film Cameras
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Save on Film Cameras
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- You may also like
