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You need to be careful to get the right kit. There are two different and non-interchangeable kits being sold by different sellers under the same 801903 part number. Assuming that they are both kits that fit this range of boilers, I guess that there must have been a change during the production run of the boilers. Type 1 has "O" rings on the brass plugs just under the head and a longer spindle on the "blunt" (non- "O" ring) end of the bobbin. Type 2 has "O" rings further down the brass plug and a shorter spindle on the blunt end of the bobbin. (See the photos - I had to get another kit that matched the dirty parts shown) Type 1 fitted my boiler. I don't think there's any alternative to removing the right side of the valve and comparing it very carefully with the sellers' photos to ensure that you get the right kit. You may be wondering whether you can fit the kit without removing the sanitary block from the boiler (as I was). You can. Switch off the large CH valves and the incoming cold water feed and drain the boiler using the little black circular tap and a short length of hose on the small hose connector. It's only a few pints of water but best not caught by the circuit board! Then disconnect the leads from the water pressure sensor and the actuator and separate the actuator from the valve by removing the large spring clip. Juggle the actuator over the pressure sensor and out. That gives access to the right side of the valve. Water pump pliers are good for removing this as it's got four flats, not six. You can just about get at the left side without removing anything but it's easier if you remove the small bore pipe that goes across the front. Make sure you don't lose any of the spring clips! The left side needs a 19mm (or probably 3/4" if you have one) spanner. A ratchet spanner works really well. When replacing the parts on the left, put the castellated plastic piece in first, castellations first. Then assemble the plastic spring seat and the spring on to the plug and put that in, making sure that the spring doesn't fall off on the way in. That's the hardest bit done. Then build up the right side with the "O" ring end of the bobbin going in first. There should be about 5mm of spindle protruding into the counter-bore on the right side brass plug. Put the other stuff back on and re-pressurise. If you get an F9 (or is it F7?) fault when you switch on, the connector on the pressure sensor is not in the right place. It's not a very positive location. The quality of the threads on the brass plugs is not great in these kits but the sealing is done by the "O" rings, so I think they're adequate.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I am sorry to say this product did not live up to expectation. My valve had developed a leak at the seal. Not knowing what was wrong I ordered this whole kit. On removal I found the seal had failed but chose to replace the plunger section as well. First problem was the circlip would not fit. I found the machining on the plug has not been finished and I had to saw the boss section to get clearance. I then could get the clip in. I then fitted it all back. The leak was fixed but then plunger jammed inside not allowing hot water. I chose not to waste any more time. I cleaned my plunger and just used the boss with the new seal. Put evrything back and all worked. So all in all, not very good. At least the seal was good and that was all I needed.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
This part was not the correct size. My Boiler engineer had to go to another store whilst trying to fit the part to buy another 30 CI gloworm. The main valve was about 2mm too big so would not fit in place. This left me out of pocket.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Waste of time - the valve rod part doesn't fit the boiler stated in the listing, parts missing, two hours wasted trying to install parts that cant fit, and two weeks to get refund. Not good enough.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Well made and easily fitted
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
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