 |
The kit comes with everything you need to convert your bike (except the battery). It has a peddlec sensor, so it starts working as you peddle, but there's twist throttle too so you can set off from stationary without peddling if you want. I recommend you do fit the supplied brake levers, this motor is powerful and you don't want it getting away from you - typical scenario is when slowing for a junction, you need to spin the pedals to change down gears so you're ready to set off again and you don't want the motor pulling when that's happening. There is some weight to it, but with it being a rear wheel you don't really feel it - I've had front hub motors and they feel awful with suspension forks. A few things to watch - the twist throttle takes up room on the handlebar, my bike had the twist type gear shift and it was necessary to change the rear shifter to a thumb click type to give the twist grip clearance. It worked out better since the kit came with a 7 speed block I ordered a 7 speed shifter and now my bike is 21 speed whereas it was 18 speed before. The supplied controller bag is a tight fit to get all the wires inside and there are no holes in it for the wires to pass through - it's easy enough to cut a hole when you've worked out where you want the wiring to go. There is a wire which enables you to set 250W and 15MPH (legal) or 1000W and 30MPH maximum speed, I fitted a handlebar mounted switch so I can flick between the two. 1000W is actually too much a lot of the time, I tend to run it at 250W and only switch when I need the boost. The difference between 250W and 1000W is startling. The twistgrip is proportional and overrides the pedelec sensor, so you can run it in 1000W mode and then use the twistgrip to reduce the amount of assist (by only twisting it a little way), this will extend battery life and stop the bike running away - on my bike in top gear I can't actually pedal fast enough to keep up with the motor on level ground. The twist grip also includes a basic (4 level) battery meter and an on/off button, you can leave the switch on your battery turned on and activate / deactivate drive easily with this button. When the drive is off there is a little drag (cogging) from the rear wheel motor, but you don't really notice it and the bike can be ridden perfectly normally without the power assist. 3 Years and 4500 miles later and I've just had to replace the wheel bearings. They're a standard 6202 sealed type so easy to obtain.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Pro: Powerful. 1000W just runs in an instant. PAS: pedal assist system works instantly. You hop on the bike and then pedal two or three times and then bum! the motor takes over. Adjustable power: 1000W - 250W. For that, you just need to connect two pins. Silent. I've seen powerful motors but they're usually noisy. This one is very silent. Con: Even though PAS works fin, it doesn't have a torque sensor, just a magnetic motion sensor, so in the instant you pedal, the motor goes to full power and keeps it that way until you stop pedalling. If you pedal and also hit the throttle, the motor has power gaps. It actually stops for two or three seconds, then it runs again, then stops again and so on. So I suggest you use it only with pedal or only with the throttle. It is extremely heavy, 10 Kg or so, which debalances the bike.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I recieved my kit 2 days earlier than expected. The kit arrived in perfect condition and very well packaged. I had to change my gear change to thumb operated ones as I couldnt use the old twist change with the throttle assembly, overall very easy to fit, very satisfying tidying up all the wires once the wheel and controller have been fixed to the bike. I decided to just use the throttle instead of the Pedal assist as I'd heard the PAS on this kit was not great. The throttle however works perfectly very responsive and very quiet, you just get a small whine when on full power. The only criticism I have is that when you get to a big ish hill it could do with a bit more torque, but if you pedal at the same time it will go up anything effortlessly. I opted for the 48v 13AH battery, so far I've done 11 miles on it and its saying I have over half battery life left. So all in all very happy. Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I thought I’d take the plunge & attempt a diy E bike conversion. This kit comes well packaged & is easy to fit. The only thing you need to add is the battery. The whole set up makes your bike about 15 kgs heavier. But at speed my mountain bike felt well planted I Guess the low down weight might actually help. But the thrill of riding like a super hero is worth it You can literally fly up hills! the motors quiet you don’t even hear it working away. Id Highly recommend this rear hub set up. I had to file about 2mm out of my frame as the spindle didn’t look fully seated at first. It would of worked but you really want the rear spindle well seated as there’s a lot of torque going through it. You can buy a bracket called a torque plate to r einforce it. But I just wanted to get it up & running will add the bracket when it arrives. But I’m very impressed with the end results. Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Great bit of kit, easy to fit and does everything they claim very well, I am very happy with this purchase, even saw 32mph at one time off road of course! and in favourable conditions.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Best-selling in Electric Bike Components
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Save on Electric Bike Components
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- You may also like
