Good if you can fix weaknesses
This is what I’d call a “nearly mixer” – It’s nearly a really good one, you nearly get all the correct bolts and it nearly all goes together correctly.
Delivery was fine, but assembly was a different matter. Thanks go to previous reviewers pointing out that the manual was pants, I agree, and also that the side of the frame with the three holes has to go to the motor side. Moving on from there, this is what I found during assembly.
Frame all put together without much problem other than wrong bolts occasionally needing replacements. Lower drum dropped in ok. Close look at the tapped holes in the ring gear for the upper half showed three of the six were partly covered so that the screws could not go in. Solution, remove the six screws holding the ring gear and let it drop onto the frame. This gives plenty of room to get in to enlarge the holes. I used a step drill and took the holes up to 8mm. There is no reason these holes have to be so small in the first place.
Screwed the ring gear on and put on the top half of the drum without problem. Best way to do this is to get 6 x M6x50 say bolts and put them in the top half and put the rubber seal onto these bolts. This holds everything in place. Put top half onto the bottom and screw in the longer bolts a few turns. The longer bolts give plenty of wiggle room. When all bolts entered, replace them one at a time with the short ones.
At this point I tightened up all the bolts everywhere when the machine was sitting nice and level, including the one that holds the entire drum in at the bottom of the drum. This was when I discovered the biggest problem. The drum would now not rotate and completely jammed at one point due to lack of backlash at the ring gear / drive pinion.
Close inspection showed the cast ring gear to be thicker at this point. So strip the drum down again and take the ring gear off. The casting is pretty rough on the back, but the main problem is that it measured roughly 23-24mm thick except at this one point where it tapered up to more like 27-28mm. Only solution to this is either return the machine (which should never have made it past QA with a ring gear like this), or, fix it. Daft engineer that I am, and wanting to use it the next day, Out came the grinder and roughly 40 minutes later, 3-4mm had been removed at the high spot tapering away from this point over roughly a 120 degree section of the ring to get it reasonably uniform. Other rough spots on it were cleaned up at the same time.
Drum built up again and now rotated fine. Backlash was too big, so drum off again and one of the adjusting shims at the bottom removed. Backlash now reasonably good all round. None of this mentioned in the “manual” of course. It doesn’t exactly rotate true, it is about 6-8mm eccentricity but it does at least now go round.
There were a few other niggles. The tipping wheel locking ring does not going on easily as it fouls with a circlip. Also leave the gear shield off until last as you’ll probably want to bend it a bit to fit better, but these are minor compared to the ring gear problem.
A few more size details would be helpful, as it actually was a good bit taller than I thought it would be, but on the plus side, you can get a builders barrow under it for emptying. After four small batches of concrete made with pea gravel the paint had worn through to bare metal at the most worked points so not like a previous reviewer had stated but pretty normal in my experience.
Where is it made? Good question. There may be a sticker with what looks like a Union Flag on it, but there is nothing on the machine, website, Ebay or the “manual” to say. Declaration of conformity is TUV Germany, but my suspicion is that it originates much further east.
All in all, it COULD be a great little machine. The tipping wheel and cast iron ring gear were the things that attracted me, but if you are not particularly handy at fixing the faults that will come with it, I’d avoid it like the plague.
Verified purchase: YesCondition: New