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About this product
Product Identifiers
PublisherMBI Publishing Company LLC
ISBN-100760326533
ISBN-139780760326534
eBay Product ID (ePID)52639229
Product Key Features
Book TitleSurfing and the Meaning of Life
Number of Pages96 Pages
LanguageEnglish
Publication Year2006
TopicSurfing
IllustratorYes
GenreSports & Recreation
AuthorBen Marcus
FormatHardcover
Dimensions
Item Height0.5 in
Item Weight8 Oz
Item Length5.5 in
Item Width5.5 in
Additional Product Features
Intended AudienceTrade
LCCN2006-015531
Dewey Edition22
Photographed byDivine, Jeff, Marcus, Ben
Dewey Decimal797.3/2
SynopsisAll sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
Surf pictures need a larger format like Devine’s coffee table books. This is too small to enjoy. The quotes are often disingenuous and or inappropriate to many of the photos. I’m biased though, as my grandfather knew the Duke, I started surfing just after the golden age, and I don’t really know any of the younger hedonists.