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Reviews (4)
28 Feb, 2022
AWESOME Head Unit!
I bought this to replace my older Alpine CDE-HD148BT. I LOVED my old head unit but it was just falling quickly into the obsolescence category because it lacked the features of modern units. So, I wanted , Hi-Res Audio capabilities, Apple CarPlay, Backup camera abilities, and a touchscreen while still retaining all of the other features my old head unit had which included the 9-band parametric EQ (this unit actually has independent front and rear 9-band PEQ’s), HD Radio, Alpine Tune-It App compatibility, 3 sets of 4V pre-amp outputs, and many other features. I had my eyes on this for a good while while making my decision but then it was suddenly discontinued RIGHT when I went to buy it! So, I got a good used one and I’m VERY happy with it. Although the Hi-Res part didn’t come to be because the Hi-Res FLAC files will ONLY be Hi-Res if they are loaded onto a USB Flash Drive which then I don’t have the USB port for my phone to run CarPlay and everything like that. I suppose I can still load some FLAC files onto a USB Flash Drive and plug that in if I REALLY want to, but TBH, 24-bit/48kHz is STILL a MAJOR improvement over 256kbps AAC or 320kbps MP3 and even 16-bit/44.1kHz CD Quality. Now, it ALSO will give 24-bit/48kHz via Apple CarPlay when using Apple Music Lossless, but it STILL will not go above 48kHz. I REALLY don’t care to lose my other features just to get that extra sampling rate nor do I care to have to purchase a $1,500+ DSP that ALSO samples at 96kHz or higher to run my active crossovers. So, the Hi-Res plan went out the window but I’m still very happy with the other functionality. I plan to add the KAC-001 Accessory Controller to it to add exterior lighting controls directly to the head unit plus a backup camera in direct mode rather than a composite video camera (this will do BOTH), and I may even play with the iDataLink Maestro RR unit to see if I can get any cool extra features from an older vehicle such as DTC display and possible some computerized gauges, but I have to find a flash for that unit that works as a generic unit rather than a vehicle-specific flash. The HD Radio works great although I wish the digital signal had the same range as the analog signal. Also, the touchscreen is FAR better than other brands. It’s just like operating my iPhone when it comes to touch sensitivity and accuracy plus speed of reaction. Other brands are FAR lacking in this department! I haven’t hooked up any HDMI devices to it yet to see that but I do want to add a DVE-5300 at some point. I DO have the parking brake bypassed with the PAC TR1 because it is VERY difficult to access the parking brake wire in my truck, so I just decided to bypass it so I could get into the higher settings. No, I am NOT going to watch movies while I’m driving! But, my girlfriend might want to while she’s laying close to me (the lost benefit of having a BENCH seat in the front, lol). I have it hooked to a DSP to run my amps and advanced crossovers so I’m not running very much of the sound tuning available with this unit nor am I running the internal amplifier. If it’s anything like their other units, the internal sound tuning is phenomenal for the basic user. It DOES have the capability to run the KTP-445A Power Pack which raises output from 16W RMS x 4 to 45W RMS x 4 with just a couple simple plug-in connections while still running off the OEM 15-Amp radio power supply. For someone wanting a nice basic upgrade in sound, that’s the way to go. Replace the main speakers with some entry-level S-Series speakers and add the KTP-445A and you have a REALLY nice basic system. Then you can add an outboard subwoofer and amp if you choose. The ONE gripe I have about it is that there isn’t a quick access for the subwoofer level control like what I had with my old 148 where a single click of the audio button put you at the sub level control. So, I had to add a subwoofer level control knob. But this unit has the DUAL 9-band HD PEQ, Time Correction, high and low pass crossovers, Pandora, Bluetooth, and all of the other features you’d expect from even the most basic of aftermarket head units today. I do like the customizable colors for the screen and the buttons as well. You can even load your own custom Splash Screen for Start Up that gives an OEM and/or custom touch to it. I made my own from scratch and loaded it. Google Maps Nav works great via CarPlay because it has a GPS antenna to assist your phone’s GPS signal that really pinpoints your location and you can even mute the audible cues for the GPS if you’re jamming to some music and don’t want it interrupted by “In 1/4 mile, use the right lane to take the I-270 North, North Outerbelt North ramp” which can get VERY annoying sometimes! Installation was just like any other head unit of its class, so nothing out of the ordinary there. If you can find a good one of these used, BUY IT. Until the new iLX-507 is released (it’s in Asia now), there is NO comparable unit today! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
28 Feb, 2022
Great Processor, Less Expensive than others!
This is an AWESOME little DSP! I’ve been running one in my 2000 Ford Ranger in standalone mode for almost a year now and the sound quality is PHENOMENAL. I’ve also installed them in a couple other vehicles with the flash on them using the iDataLink Maestro AR part as well. The ONLY bug I have run across is with the Bluetooth connection to my phone. When first opening the app, it won’t sync with the DSR1 and will crash, exiting the app. This is with an iPhone so I’m not sure about the Android version as I’ve never tried it even though I do have an Android tablet. I don’t carry that with me and if I find something that needs to be adjusted or if I want to play with a setting, it’s easier to just pull my phone out of my pocket and connect to it. I’m actually getting ready to purchase a SECOND one of these to go active on my rear speakers as they are passive right now and the phase shift in the crossover is screwing with the stereo image. I also want to add the midrange speaker to the rear and go 3-way like the front is. I DO wish, and I’ve called RF about this, that they were linkable via the Expansion Port. That would make these things even MORE versatile because you could run front and rear into just one of them and a digital signal would flow between them plus it would allow control through just one unit rather than having to connect to them separately. If it had the ability to link them, the possibilities would be endless, especially if there was a pigtail on each link cable to connect more than just 2 of them. Let’s face it, some people are building party busses out of retired school busses and need GOBS of channels to run a 2- or 3-way setup every 10 feet or so. These also have a digital input to come from a DVD player and run a 5.1 system, which is configurable in the setup. But if you have multi-way component speakers and want to run discrete amp channels to each of 5 main speakers with a single digital input, forget it because they aren’t linkable. You CAN run a 5.1 system with passive crossover networks but that almost defeats the entire purpose of having a DSP in the first place which is to have a FULLY active crossover system with independent EQ’s, time alignment, HP LP AND BP crossovers (up to -48 in HP or LP or up to -24 on BP, in -6 steps), phase control, and level control on EACH channel. Yeah, it acts as a Dolby Digital decoder which is, yes, a good reason to have one of these, but operating it in 5.1 mode will remove all ability to run active independent features otherwise. I suppose you COULD have THREE of them in all with one set to decode the Dolby Digital, a second to take the stereo front and separate it into a 3-way plus subwoofer, and then a third to separate the rear stereo plus center channel. I MUST mention that you CANNOT separate the subwoofer channel into stereo! But you CAN set the subwoofer output channel to whatever crossover setting you want, as long as you understand the output will be monaural. So, you COULD use the subwoofer output as a center channel output. You just have to hook it all up correctly so the inputs correspond to the outputs of the main DSP that’s decoding the Dolby Digital. You won’t be able to use the nifty time alignment calculator that you simply plug in the raw measurements and it calculates the delay for you by subtracting the nearer from the farthest itself. If you do that, it won’t calculate in the true farthest speaker, only the farthest to which it’s connected. But all you need to know is simple subtraction and that each inch is 0.074ms delay. But, again, if they were linkable, you could have one master and at least 1 or 2 “slave” DSP’s linked together much like hard drives in a computer and setup would be MUCH simpler. But, those are some pretty advanced setups and this really was designed to be a simple way to do things. You can either retain your factory head unit and replace or add your own amplifiers while still adding better sound tuning than if you just ran straight to the speaker-level inputs of your amplifier from the factory head unit or you can even use it to add amplifiers to a lesser aftermarket head unit in the same way you would do it with a factory head unit. It has configurations for a 5.1 surround, front 2-way with rear full range plus sub, front and rear full range plus subwoofer, front 3-way plus subwoofer (no rear), and I think there were a couple other options as well plus the 2 pairs of inputs are configurable as front/rear, front/sub, or front only when using only one pair. When I buy my second, I’ll have my original as front 3-way plus sub in a front/sub input config and then have my second as front only input and the use the “front” 3-way outputs to drive my rear 3-way setup. And later if I decide to add a second sub, I have the outputs right there for it unless I just daisy chain it off the other sub amp. All in all, this is a GREAT and INEXPENSIVE DSP that is still a QUALITY piece! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
06 Apr, 2022
Awesome subwoofer, great price
These subs will outperform their specs on paper any day of the week. MSRP for these was $300-$330 when they were the current model and they perform just as good or better than the competitors which are 2-3 times the price, and they handle more power than the others. These are very comparable to a JL W6 and they handle an extra 150W RMS. The rest of the specs are pretty much the same and these also require less airspace, but the 10W6 is $750 and the 12W6 is $880!! Alpine claims an F3 of 39Hz in a 0.58ft^3 sealed box but mine, measured with Room EQ Wizard’s RTA and a Dayton iMM-6 calibrated microphone, is actually at an F3 of 29Hz. For a 10” subwoofer in a SEALED enclosure?!?!? That’s INCREDIBLE!!! Tight, deep, clean bass and I’m pushing mine to 850W RMS through an Alpine S-A60M that’s Korean made and the birth sheet states 851W RMS at 2 ohms. It’s been taking that for almost a year now and I NEVER play at low volume. These are just AMAZING subwoofers, ESPECIALLY for their price! I’m actually adding a second because I’m adding more power to the main speakers and I don’t want to lose the power ratio I have now. I’ll be pushing 1700W RMS to both of them combined with 730W RMS to the rest of the system. Just a single one of these at 850W will push 110dB SPL in my truck. Expecting somewhere in the ballpark of 120dB SPL with the second installed and I’ve hand-picked a second amp that matches the first. POWER? Check. LOUD? Check. DURABLE? Check. SOUND QUALITY? CHECK, CHECK, CHECK!!!! These actually give DETAIL to the bass like I’ve never heard before. A bass guitar actually sounds like a musical instrument rather than just a solid tone. And the bass drums are super sharp and defined. A 10” has an IDEAL resonant frequency for a bass drum kick. Fs of these is 31Hz for the Dual 4 and 30Hz for the Dual 2. Double bass kicks in metal are SUPER defined and don’t run together to form a blurred tone. It hits so hard with just ONE that you can FEEL the kick in your chest. I can only imagine how it will be once I add the second. I’ve heard good and bad things about the R2’s, but I bought mine on clearance since it was after the new ones were released so they matched both in looks and in sound. The ONE gripe I have about these is the stupid rubber ring to cover the screws. I can’t get it to stay on to save myself, lol. The R2’s have a paintable plastic ring that locks in place over the screw holes so that issue has been fixed on the new ones. I wish Alpine hadn’t discontinued the grilles for these because I’d like to change the rubber ring to the grille, but it’s not the end of the world. The crazy thing about these is that they are super controlled with the HAMR surround yet still are not overly-stiff where you need a large box. You can have TWO of these in the same airspace that others need for ONE! Two 10’s in a sealed box that’s just a hair over 1ft^3!!! Ported air space is a bit larger though and has a recommended size of 1.3ft^3 each, but that gives an F3 of 28Hz and an Fb of 36Hz with a 6.1dB spike for the Dual 4 and F3 of 29Hz and Fb of 36Hz with a 4.8dB spike on the Dual 2. I’m a rock/metal guy so a 10 performs EXACTLY the way I like for my type of music. They would work very well for Hip-Hop/Rap and R&B as well, but I’ll bet the 12’s would do better for that. I really can’t say enough good things about these subwoofers. I’ll run these things until they die and then buy new ones, lol. But, knowing Alpine, that day will never come. I’ve been an Alpine user for over 20 years and, aside from a couple tweeters that were actually my fault, I’ve NEVER had a component fail on me. When I replaced my amps this last year for my new showcase build, I SOLD my 10- and 15-year-old amps in PERFECT working condition. I also sold my 10-year-old CDE-HD148BT that I replaced with an iLX-207, also in perfect working condition with only minor cosmetic wear on the faceplate. Every other product I’ve had from them I either still have, sold in perfect working condition, or sold it with the car because it wouldn’t fit my new car. That’s more than I can say for the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 that I’m currently running but getting ready to replace. There is a MAJOR design flaw with those and the programmed crossover frequencies are not true. I have to cross my tweeters at 5kHz to get a 3.5kHz response from them. If set at 2.5kHz, shows as a 1kHz crossover. I tried to have it replaced under warranty to find the new one WORSE, so I swapped back to the original one. And RF doesn’t even want to fix their faulty product!!! That is the first and LAST RF product I will EVER buy. Even though Alpine is made in China or Korea for most of their products, they have superior quality control and are contracting very good factories that actually produce quality products. It’s a great recipe for Alpine because it allows them to supply superior products at an extremely affordable price. My suggestion: buy as many of these as you can before they’re gone!!!