About
All Feedback (234)
- osariz0 (369)- Feedback left by buyer.Past monthVerified purchaseGood ebayer paid on time
- thatguyinthatsuit (238)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
- bigbuckssales (7394)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseGreat communication. A pleasure to do business with.
- buythisandsave (3478)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseExcellent buyer. Thank you.
- thrift.books (3917066)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseHope to deal with you again. Thank you.~Thrift.Books
- marrsinc (67620)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseQuick response and fast payment. Perfect! THANKS!!
Reviews (2)
21 Jun, 2018
A good replacement for the Mitsubishi 2SC1972 does exist!
Finding good replacements for the 2SC1972 is very difficult these days; fakes and bad pulls abound. Fortunately, Eleflow appears to have this solved.
Based on info I found on the net, including two different hams respected for their technical abilities who have used these, I gave a matched pair of them a try to repair my ICOM 756 Pro with failed power amplifier drivers (yup, Q2 and Q3, both 2SC1972s). They checked out fine (protection diode between c and e exists, hfe identical between the two, as marked), went in with no issues, and the radio is back on the air. They are a tad bit wider than the original Mitsubishi part, a hair over 10mm I recall, but that wasn't an issue in my ICOM.
In summary: I can't complain. Found them on Ebay...did some research...bought them...got 'em fast...installed them...radio works...and Bob's your uncle!
(BTW, Bob really *was* my uncle, may he rest in peace)
28 Jan, 2018
Does what it says on the tin and does it well
Eager to play with my new toy, I quickly breadboarded a test circuit, driving an LED using a CMOS-input logic gate. Besides connecting power, ground and timecode out, I just pulled PON low and let AGC float. Nothing happened...until I TURNED OFF MY FLORESCENT LIGHTS. Once I did that, it synced up in a few seconds and my LED started flashing as expected -- Big Fun Now. The receiver seems quite sensitive; I do live in the primary coverage area of WWVB but it's still a thousand miles away, so I was impressed with how fast it synced up.
Included was a datasheet and the URL of the universal solder website, which has further documentation, including for the receiver module itself. Note that the timecode output can only source/sink around 5 to 15 microamps so you'll want to use something high impedance like a CMOS-input logic element if you want to drive an LED; I used a salvaged 74AC00. Or, just do what everyone else does and feed it into a PIC or ATMEL uP -- that's what I'm planning to do.
Cheers