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r***r (2809)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past 6 months
Verified purchase
Very pleased with our purchase, from a first class seller, who was extremely helpful and an absolute pleasure to do business with. Many thanks.
easipack (234512)- Feedback left by buyer.
More than a year ago
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Good buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
nich1952 (438)- Feedback left by buyer.
More than a year ago
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Excellent communication, quick payment, great e-bayer
f***t (11)- Feedback left by buyer.
More than a year ago
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This arrived exactly as described 10/10
3***a (32)- Feedback left by buyer.
More than a year ago
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Great condition, packaging, description. All round 5*. Thank you!
larryl4z (94)- Feedback left by buyer.
More than a year ago
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Fast payment. Good communicator. Recommended
Reviews (1)
30 Nov, 2016
Iconic student camera, but make sure you buy a good one and be aware of the pitfalls
8 of 8 found this helpful The K1000 is undoubtedly an iconic camera, and has gained a huge reputation as THE camera for students of photography to learn on. However, having had a few of these through my hands it is clear that many are now suffering the ravages of time. So, please choose carefully and make sure you buy a good one!
Strangely enough, I recall seeing an Amateur Photographer test report of the K1000 from the early 1980s which highlighted the fact that neither the shutter nor the meter were particularly accurate .... and that's a camera straight out of the factory! So perhaps it's not entirely surprising to learn that K1000s approaching 35-40 years old also suffer with inaccurate meters and shutters, except that these inaccuracies are now more marked.
This is perhaps not so surprising when you learn that the K1000 is a fully mechanical camera. A battery is only needed to power the meter and the shutter will operate at ALL speeds without the aid of a battery. In other words, the full range of speeds from 1 to 1/1000th second are achieved by means of springs, cogs and bearings. The problem is that many of these cameras have sat idle for many years, and springs lose their tension whilst lubricants gradually dry out and become sticky.
One common problem is that when these cameras get 'put away' their owners leave the battery in, probably intending to use the camera in a few weeks time. However, after a few years these button cells start to leak corrosive acid into the battery chamber. This corrodes the contact with the wire to the meter, which often renders the meter inoperable. Thankfully this is quite an easy repair ..... but is fiddly and requires a very steady hand and good soldering technique.
Even meters that are 'working' can often become inaccurate. Thankfully most are usually accurate to within half a stop. However, once the meter starts to 'die' it will become grossly inaccurate, and this inaccuracy will not be linear across the full range of light levels. I have seen really bad ones where the meter is out by 3 stops in very bright conditions, reducing to only 1 stop in dim light.
However, with light meter apps on smart phones this is not so critical, as it is easy enough to do a quick check. What can be more problematic are inaccurate shutter speeds. It is possible to check shutter speeds without specialist equipment and to gain an approximate idea as to whether the shutter is accurate. However, this needs a good understanding of how a focal plane shutter works along with a bit of experience.
In an attempt to quantify the accuracy of shutter speeds I recently acquired a shutter speed tester (Phochron XA) and this has been an eye opener! I have now tested the shutters of around a dozen K1000s (and KMs) and perhaps only 1 or 2 could be said to be fully reliable at all shutter speeds. It is impossible to generalise, although the majority of problems occur at the faster speeds. Not only can speeds become very inaccurate, but the exposure can vary significantly across the frame. To illustrate, I have found at least one camera where the 1/1000th speed actually timed at around 1/500th, and several others where the 1/1000th speed timed at well over 1/2000th. Not only that, but there were several where the shutter failed to open fully at 1/1000th (a problem known as tapering).
Of course, print film has a wide exposure latitude and hopefully the majority of meter and shutter inaccuracies won't be evident on the negative. And don't forget, that a competent service will restore a shutter to full accuracy ..... although you will need to factor in an additional £60-70 for a service.
The other certainty is that if the light seals and mirror foam haven't been replaced they will definitely need doing now. The original foam seals tend to degrade over time and decompose to a sticky black gunge.
So, my message to all potential purchasers is as follows. If you are buying via an auction where there is very little information, then don't pay too much as the chances are you will have one or more of the above problems. The problem is you may not realise this until you get your first roll of film developed.
It would therefore be safer to buy from someone who has replaced the light seals (with the correct materials), tested the meter and shutter operation and given you an honest assessment of how well these functions are working. A seller who does all of this, and describes every other aspect of the camera operation is truly worth buying from.